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Mossi Traoré, winner of Andam’s Pierre Bergé Prize in 2020, expressed his emotions in the form of a three-part fall 2024 show that aimed to convey sadness, anger and hope — the three feelings that guided him through this season.

There were straightforward manifestations, like slogan T-shirts that read, “Doing politics should not mean deciding on people’s right to live” and “I want the younger generation to know Madame Grès better than Kim Kardashian.” The latter was a nod to Traoré’s effort to pass down couture garment-making techniques to the younger generation with the Les Ateliers d’Alix, a school he launched in 2015 in honor of Grès.

“With fashion, we can share a message, to make the world better, and to make peace between people because we need to act on everything that’s happening in the world. I want to be an ambassador of positive things and to be free, to express my emotions freely,” said Traoré.

Emotion talk aside, Mossi presented a wardrobe that’s fit for a globe-trotting lifestyle. The draped tops, asymmetric sweaters, layered white shirts and pleated dresses felt modern and multifunctional. Traoré counted the work of South Korean artist Lee Bul as his main source of inspiration for the season, as well as the shape of an Indian sari and Grès’ technical legacy.

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