As flashing lights and a booming voice announced “first look” at Noir Kei Ninomiya, out came what looked like a 3D and human-sized version of the doodles people make when they’re trying different colors of pens at stationary stores.
From that, it wasn’t hard to divine what was top of mind for the Japanese designer this season. “I tried to make something new this time, using more colors, more textures and mixing different kinds of materials,” he later said through a translator. “And playing with the lights as well.”
What followed were more brightly-toned flurries of flowers, clouds of tulle or sprays of feathers that had a sense of child-like joy to them. The looks came supplemented by bright versions of Reebok’s Instapump Fury sneakers, his latest collaboration that also spanned bags.
As the soundtrack distorted, dashes of Ninomiya’s favorite hue — “still black,” he confirmed with a grin — appeared in the grid design of a fuzzy coat or as accessories.
They paved the way for his more conventional garments that too felt novel to him, breaking away from his rock and punk playbook with their dressier direction.
Standouts included a neatly fitted jacket with a straight collar adorned with a boteh motif, and charming balloon-sleeved tops cut from khaki satin and plaid separates zhuzhed up with harnesses, best-sellers for the brand if what the guests of his show wore is anything to go by.
Along with the XXL knits crafted out of satin tubing, a new direction in his quest to make clothing without a stitch, these were proof that when it comes to exploring the confines of his universe, Ninomiya’s imagination never fades to black.
