A little leather thread ran through the refined collection Gabriele Colangelo conjured for resort 2025, which shed a new light on the sharp lines of the designer’s impeccable tailoring and his sartorial prowess.
Integrated as drawstrings along the ribs of blazer jackets, the leather tubulars enabled a tweak in proportions, enhancing the waist and amplifying the neatness of the shoulders. Ditto for clean-cut dresses, including a minimal option in sage green, which Colangelo elected as the shade of the season and added to his familiar palette of buttery shades, navy and black.
Other frocks saw the leather thread running as a crisscross embellishment around the waist, corsetry-inspired details ending in fringes or as spaghetti straps, with micro knots elevating their ’90s vibe. Cue a look layering a crisp organza slipdress with another in viscose cady, which created a nice textural contrast while keeping silhouettes essential.
Such a juxtaposition also informed Colangelo’s approach to outerwear, as seen in a matte nylon parka layered with a technical wool jacket punctuated by metal snaps. He also experimented with a blend of cotton and metal threads in bomber jackets with a paper-y hand, as well as with treatments, as seen in a floral-printed parka coated with a pigment that lent a rubbery touch to its surface.
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To balance the casual vibe, the designer indulged in the botanical inspiration also with delicate embroideries crafted from raffia, which injected a sensual spin in the collection via bralettes and see-through trims on slipdresses and shirts. The seductive theme was reinforced with a series of body-hugging knitted tops and frocks embellished with chains of gold spheres.
Hero looks included a long shirt and Bermuda shorts cut from a cotton-polyester blend with a crinkle-pleated effect, as well as a black coat, minidress and pants crafted from a mix of cotton, silk and raffia creating fluttering fringes and fully expressing Colangelo’s demi-couture approach to fashion.
