Prada, Bottega Veneta Win Over Retailers in Milan

MILAN — Retailers embraced the new wave of romanticism that swept through Milan Fashion Week, but also remarked how brands from Gucci to Roberto Cavalli revisited storied codes and archival designs.

Italian craftsmanship was once again praised as unique, leading to delicate lace, rich fringing and textures, and standout embellishments.

They hailed the return of the skirt and of the dress in a more ladylike style, and the palette of soft pastels, floral motifs and ribbed knits, while brands also showed oversize boxy blazers, contrasting with narrower silhouettes. There were plenty of 1920s flapper-style dresses, and a noticeable lightness in the collections through sheer organza and chiffon designs.

Prada and Bottega Veneta were highlighted by many as the standouts of the week — including the animal bean bag chairs of the latter — while Gucci and Marni were also seen as convincing, and The Attico continues to steam ahead. Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piano’s quality and luxury were singled out.

“Milan was an upper, helped out by unusually brilliant blue skies overhead all week long,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and director of women’s fashion and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman. “Uplifting new colors combined with standout collections and reminders everywhere that this is ‘The City’ where the utmost luxurious materials and techniques are put to the service of new proposals on dressing. Milan’s numerous legacy houses proved again that they can up their own ante. When you’re in the luxury fashion business, this is the place to be.”

Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus, said, “There was a refocusing in Milan this week. We saw brands look back to their iconic codes and honor the history of the house. An air of nostalgia at Prada and Versace brought an exciting buzz to the room, as did the emotional supermodel tribute to Mr. Cavalli and the special guest at Dolce & Gabbana, Madonna herself.” She pointed to the feminine trend, emphasized by sheer and lingerie touches, and Italian craft.

April Henning, chief merchant at Moda Operandi, highlighted retrofuturism, references to the ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘90s and “in terms of silhouette and form, we saw a lot of interest and variation in necklines and hemlines,” knee- length skirts, clashing prints, “pairing utility outerwear with glittering eveningwear” and a ladylike note with silk scarves.

Here, a roundup of what buyers had to say about the season:

Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks

Favorite collections: Matthieu Blazy’s spring collection for Bottega Veneta was a real wow. Embracing the everyday, Blazy illustrated the joy of getting dressed for everyday tasks. Prada’s anything goes collection was refreshing. Francesco Risso’s “Essential Beauty Routine” show for Marni was playful, theatrical and magical, reminding us of the joy of getting dressed and how transformative and beautiful the experience is. Kim Jones’ look back at 100 years of Fendi was elegant, timeless and sophisticated. We loved the juxtaposition of hard and soft at Jil Sander.

Best presentation concept: We went down the rabbit hole at Marni’s theatrical show complete with three grand pianos and a joyful line up of breathtaking fashion. Matthieu Blazy’s Zanotta Sacco animal bean bag chair set up for Bottega Veneta was playful and such a delight. La DoubleJ created a sanctuary with a five-hour sound bath, crystals and her favorite healers from around the world. It was a welcomed moment of calm and healing during the fashion marathon. 

Trendspotting: Sheer transparency, lace, intricate floral appliqués, lingerie details, fringe, ladylike dressing, return of the skirt, the oversize boxy blazer, ribbed knits, soft pastels, statement outerwear, east-west top handle bags and soft leather totes are a few things we are excited about.

Must-have item: Bottega Veneta’s tangerine ruffle skirt look, the tangerine draped dress and the novelty grocery bag. One of Prada’s eclectic pieces, such as the leopard coat, the butter yellow strapless gown, the grey skirt with the leather harness and the espadrille brogue. The siren gowns from Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio’s The Attico standout collection — the cargo jacket with a silver fishtail skirt and the crystal fringe dress are knockouts. 

General comment on the season: After so many seasons of quiet luxury, Milan has brought an optimistic and joyous feeling to the Spring 2025 collections. In these ever-changing times, designers are experimenting and testing out-of-the-box ideas this spring season. As we look ahead, there are a lot of emotional, need-now pieces for the Saks customer to feel good in. 

Richard Johnson, chief commercial and sustainability officer, Mytheresa

Favorite collections:
Prada’s collection was nothing short of breathtaking — impeccably design-led yet with an effortless wearability that only Prada can achieve. Each piece felt like a work of art, balancing creativity and practicality in a way that resonates deeply. Bottega Veneta, on the other hand, was a masterclass in subtlety. It’s all in the intricate details — the stitching, the textures, the craftsmanship. These pieces didn’t just speak to trends; they spoke to timelessness. They were not only incredibly wearable but also exuded a sense of quiet confidence and undeniable sophistication.

Best show format:
We absolutely loved Dolce & Gabbana’s homage to Madonna’s 1990 “Blonde Ambition” tour wardrobe — it was a nostalgic nod to Italian beauty. Gucci also impressed with its sunset hues, delivering a clean, minimal and effortlessly chic aesthetic.

Top trends: This season offered extraordinary elevated wardrobing from Bottega Veneta, Prada and Gucci. We saw sheer fabrics, mini lengths, rich textures and bold contrasts dominating the runway.

Must-have item: A standout piece would undoubtedly be the maxi Gucci coat from the closing looks — in “Ancora Red.” Another must-have is one of Dolce & Gabbana’s iconic conical bra dresses or bustiers — truly epic. Prada’s skirts are also essential, particularly one of the belted detail designs, which is a personal favorite.

Budgets:
Sales growth is projected to increase, signaling a positive trajectory.

New talent:
Andrea Adamo really made an impression this season; the collection was striking.

General comment on the season: The overall vibe felt powerful, with many designers returning to their roots or doubling down on their vision. The Roberto Cavalli show was especially poignant, paying homage to Roberto Cavalli’s legacy with a true Cavalli spirit, culminating in an electrifying display of maximalist gowns and party wear. Dolce & Gabbana’s collection was another nostalgic nod, with a reimagined take on their iconic conical bustiers. Bottega Veneta’s, Gucci’s and Prada’s designers, meanwhile, were at their peak, embedding their distinct styles while staying true to their brands’ core identities.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and director of women’s fashion and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman

Favorite collections: A best in class, best in show, Bottega Veneta closed the week here with a superlative and multifaceted collection that kept us, kind of, on the soft edge of our custom leather toy animal beanbag chairs. Prada always stays ahead of the game and continues to hold its position as one of the most influential design forces in the world. There was a lot at Gucci which warranted Sabato De Sarno’s jubilant dance down the runway. We’re all in where Maximilian Davis is going with Ferragamo. Fendi opened the week on a high note for us with a calming and technically rich collection referencing its 1920s origins. The misty pastels here started an important Milan color trend. Loro Piana presented a masterclass in material innovations and Brunello Cucinelli is in a class of its own. Brioni is another reason to get into the showrooms here. 

Best presentation concept: The “Material Girl” sighting and soundtrack at Dolce & Gabbana, the willy-nilly chairs and model staging at Marni with the strident live piano playing and the child-like state induced by the toy animal leather beanbag chairs at Bottega Veneta. Even fashion veterans had to smile. 

Trendspotting: The narrowing of silhouettes, misty transparency, deconstructions, utility detailing, lingerie elements, a waning of tailored jackets, skirt dressing, fine gauge knitwear, crimson as a spring color, fresh creams and whites, Milanese neutrals, softest pastels, florals as the season’s print preference, mid heels continue to dominate. 

Must-have item: Eased pencil skirts, bandeaus for midriff baring trends, base white poplin elevated, curvaceous Lucite wedge heels, blouson bombers versus tailored jackets, and bracelet side handle bags. 

Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion at Harrods

Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta and Prada were the standout shows for me this season, while Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli delivered the most compelling presentations, all of which exuded a sense of refined luxury and understated elegance.

Best presentation concept: The animal seating at Bottega. Matthieu Blazy just never disappoints. Season after season, we are privileged to witness truly exceptional talent on display. It is clear that he and his team put time and passion into the development of fabrics, finishes, silhouettes, colors and detailing. This is the absolute standout show for me this Milan Fashion Week — another masterclass.

Trendspotting: Milan is a city full of contrasts, with refined, timeless luxury on one side and fashion-focused collections on the other. The fashion-driven collections are not unified in their vision; each has its own distinct voice. This makes it harder to distill very clear trends, as they are more opaque than ever. The trends as they were seen included 1920s flapper-style dresses, dresses in general in fact, and an overall shift away from tailoring. There was a noticeable lightness in the collections, with sheer organza and chiffon being more apparent. Seasonal colors included mint and red, along with shots of yellow and orange. The ubiquitous trend for shoes was a thin wedge, seen everywhere.

Must-have item: The Bottega Veneta animal chair.

General comment on the season: Overall, the strongest and most consistent approach was from the brands with a refined luxurious and elegant approach. From Loro Piana and Brunello to Max Mara and Bottega. 

Jodi Kahn, vice president, luxury fashion, Neiman Marcus

Favorite collections: Prada surprised us with an unexpected mix of archival references through a new lens, proving all Prada collections work well together, and personality lives in the mix. Bottega Veneta showed a consistent, beautiful continuation for the brand. Fendi celebrating 100 years of the brand looked back to the 1920s for inspiration was a beautiful start, it was feminine, delicate and sensual in a wearable way. Marni had a terrific outing. It was artful, sophisticated and innovative, with almost the entire collection created from cotton. The stunning jewel encrusted pieces at the end were not to be missed.

Best presentation concept: Brunello Cucinelli showed a strong collection at the beloved and beautiful Casa Cucinelli. They continue to build upon the iconic elements we know and love from the brand. Casa Cucinelli bustling with clients and retailers delighted us with a momentary trip into their universe. 

Trendspotting: There was a consistent dusty pastel color palette of rose, ballet pink, light blue and mint. The pop color was a refreshing lemon lime, most exciting at Gucci, Prada and Versace. Silhouettes were slimmed down this season in Milan. Sheer dressing also continues with light and breezy layers. Fringe was also prominent. Thong sandals will be the shoe of the spring.

Must-have item: The Prada brogue espadrille returned, and we can’t wait to have it back in the shoe arsenal. A touch of embellishment will be a must, either from a Fendi embellished sheer sock or the sensational Brunello Cucinelli monili and paillette encrusted trenchcoat. 

Bosse Myhr, director of menswear and womenswear, Selfridges

Favorite collections: To start off, the Bottega Veneta show. Sharp tailoring, highly desirable accessories striking a balance between being playful on one side and precision on the other. The Prada show and the theme evolving around individuality and the human element was another highlight for me. Each piece and every look felt desirable either on its own or as seen in the show altogether. Not having one “theme” made the show very special.

Best presentation concept: The animal seats at Bottega were a highlight. The set up of Glenn Martens’ Diesel show was a real highlight. Dolce & Gabbana brought Madonna to Milan Fashion Week and that was a highlight in itself, inspiring the entire collection. A fashion moment for sure. Fausto Puglisi’s Cavalli collection in honor of Roberto Cavalli was a very emotional moment for all guests. Loro Piana’s beautiful presentation focusing on linen that is mixed with silk, creating what must be the most luxurious fabric for next summer.

Trendspotting: Muted prime colors — gray, black, white, beige — were present in most collections. Milan Fashion Week is also somewhat the fashion capital for the most perfect cocktail dresses. The Attico being a brand that has specialized and absolutely delivered on that front.

Must-have item: Bottega knits, as well as all the accessories and men’s overshirts. The Bally black loafers look likely to be a staple in a lot of people’s wardrobes going forward. And of course any piece from the Prada show.

General comment on the season: This season Milan Fashion Week felt very strong overall and all brands delivering collections that we are sure our customers will like. Setting the bar high for what is going to be an exciting week to come in Paris. 

Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom

Favorite collections: Marni’s collection stood out with its innovative use of cotton fabrications, infusing the runway with a jolt of energy and a tactile texture that was refreshing. Prada delivered an unexpected mash-up that was both thought-provoking and celebratory of personal, individual style. Bottega Veneta’s playful animal bean bag chairs that set a whimsical stage. The collection itself was enchanting. Fendi’s latest collection brought a sense of lightness and an ethereal quality. Max Mara remains the epitome of understated chic, crafting a wardrobe that’s effortlessly desirable for everyday elegance.

Best presentation concept: Walking through Casa Maccapani, guests were drawn into an engaging narrative journey, where dreamy fairy tales and empowered womanhood intertwined, crafting a memorable and interactive fashion experience. The Tod’s runway show stood out for its homage to craftsmanship and its blend with art, highlighted by the dramatic sculpture, leaving a lasting impression of the brand’s artistic dedication. 

Trendspotting: Radiant textures took the spotlight, from Bottega Veneta’s lustrous textural gown to Gucci’s sparkling embellished coats and paillette dress, culminating in Prada’s showstopping dress encrusted with sequins, crystals and mirrors. Brunello Cucinelli’s collection brought a playful twist with shimmering knits paired effortlessly with sporty outerwear. Fendi paid homage to 1920s elegance with delicate craftsmanship and subtle embellishments. Etro offered a bohemian take on luxury with rich patterns and lush fabrics.

Must-have item: The reedition of Prada’s stacked platform is a spring 2025 must-have. This archival shoe, known for setting trends, offers a playful and distinctive look that connects past and present design elements. The parka offers a surprising complement to dressier attire, blending casual comfort with an air of refinement.

General comment on the season: Milan Fashion Week opened and closed with an intriguing motif: the rabbit. At Marni, guests were invited to ponder a poem placed on their chairs, that depicted a rabbit’s adventure through the forest, almost as if urging them to join in its journey. Bottega Veneta concluded the week by weaving the rabbit throughout its collection, from whimsical beanbag chairs to playful collection details. The rabbit, a symbol often associated with transformation and adaptability, perfectly encapsulated the spirit of the week — dynamic, vibrant and forward-moving.

April Hennig, chief merchant at Moda Operandi

Favorite collections: Prada’s confident individualism and Bottega Veneta’s vision of childlike wonder were the absolute standouts in Milan. The creative synergy between Mrs. [Miuccia] Prada and Raf Simons was firing on all cylinders — while they referenced the influence of the algorithm in their show notes, the collection played out on its own plane of existence. Meanwhile, Matthieu Blazy homed in on an idea of seeing the world through the eyes of a child, and it gave the collection a subtle feeling of openness and play, balancing his sophisticated and artisanal aesthetic. 

Best presentation concept: The animal bean bag chairs at Bottega helped set the tone for the collection from the minute we walked in — they were the perfect reflection of his concept. Versace’s Castello Sforzesco takeover was an iconic Milanese moment. The tribute to Madonna at Dolce, from the music to the parade of looks celebrating her iconic style, with her front row to accept the honor. The Attico’s high-energy show took place in a warehouse that felt ready for a rave, matching the brand’s party-ready vibe. 

Must-have item: Any of Prada’s “best-of” shoes reinterpreted from the archives, Bottega Veneta’s Liberta bag in playful new colors and textures, Ferragamo’s thong sandal with detachable ballet ribbon.

General comment on the season: There seems to be a renewed energy in Milan. I think the collections reflect an overall culture of reinvention — whether through a house’s reinterpretation of their archive or bringing on a new creative team. Many of the brands seem to be catering to the markets (like the U.S.) that are working for them, some more successfully than others. There was also a real sense of hometown pride, especially at Gucci, Prada, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana — the fanfare outside the shows was at an unprecedented level, and it wasn’t just about the celebrity attendees. 

Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear, Printemps

Favorite collections: Prada with the ‘60s punk attitude, the mix of styles and fabrics: a good lesson on how to use and reuse our wardrobe over and over again, twisting the codes of an intellectual silhouette. Ferragamo ballet was absolutely stunning, the cache-cœur layering and the lace up shoes conjugated with an empowered femininity are the perfect modern approach to the classic theme we all love.

Best presentation concept: A calm house museum tour ending with a cozy drink in the garden at Loro Piana. Sound bath at La DoubleJ in a historical library. Brunello Cucinelli’s sophisticated and warm aperitivo in a patio.

Trendspotting: Ballet-core rising with a modern and more mature twist at Ferragamo. Transparency and embellishment at Fendi and Sportmax paired with lingerie and lace at Dolce & Gabbana and The Attico. Red and declinations to rust and burgundy at Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta.Romantic floral at Prada and Jil Sander. Punk/grunge darker and wilder is arriving very strongly as seen at Prada.

Must-have item: Prada wedge derbies, a major comeback. Lace up pale pink Ferragamo shoes. Loafer from Brunello Cucinelli. High waisted brown skirt from Max Mara. A transparent dress from The Attico, Prada and Sportmax. A blazer with a twist: with check prints at Bottega Veneta, bord franc at Jil Sander, asymmetric at Ferragamo. Purple tights from Prada. A pouch or a bag worn as a pouch, as attitude matters as much as the item, as seen at Prada and Jil Sander. A pink cache-cœur from Ferragamo.

General comment on the season: This season showed a balance between optimism and darkness, illustrated by the duality of the collections and the growing vibe of a darker and wilder assumed woman. The attention to detail and quality rises more and more, giving more power to brands with investment items. It’s definitely a shoe season and it feels good.

Kate Benson, buying director, Net-a-porter

Favorite collections: I adored the Jil Sander show: the cool rockabilly inspiration — from the set that conjured motel room vibes to the hairstyling — everything translated really well into a very desirable collection. The Dolce & Gabbana homage to Madonna was truly iconic and unforgettable.

Best presentation concept: Loro Piana, which was presented in the exceptional setting of Palazzo Belgioioso. This was the true epitome of luxury, celebrating the superior natural fabrics that Loro Piana uses, particularly linen. The mood was very sophisticated, showcasing the modern evolution of the brand that is becoming more and more sought after each season. La DoubleJ treated guests to a sound healing sanctuary: it was an oasis of calm in a frantic week.

Trendspotting: Romanticism: there is a softness running through the spring 2025 collections, which feels aligned with our strategic vision of embracing femininity and empowering the female consumer. Statement shoes: from Prada to Versace, bold, fashion-forward shoes were center stage this season. Sunset color palette: we loved the sunset tones this season with terracotta, rust and dusty pink featuring in a lot of collections, as seen at Blazé Milano, The Attico and Ferragamo, with these colorways also setting the scene for the show at Gucci.

Must-have item: Bally’s studded fishermen sandals. Simone Bellotti’s eye for shoes that are both fashion and functional is unparalleled; we have two exclusive colors of the new flat set to launch this Monday. We expect the fishermen sandals to be the next big hit. Jil Sander’s pastel knitted sets — an essential for any summer wardrobe. Bottega Veneta’ shoes. Marni’s cotton dresses….The structured, crisp dresses are a must-have and we expect to see high demand for the summer months.

General comment on the season: Overall, spring 2025 is full of rich details that truly showcase the craftsmanship and art that some of these great designers are capable of. From delicate lace and rich fringing at Gucci, ombre and embellishment at Jil Sander and print and texture at La DoubleJ, individuality and uniqueness is leading the way.

Alix Morabito, general buying and merchandising director for womenswear, Galeries Lafayette

Favorite collections: Matthieu Blazy’s talent and freedom at Bottega Veneta is once again propelling the brand a step forward. Through this show, he further constitutes a rich, highly desirable and singular vocabulary on all categories. The joy and enthusiasm of guests were palpable. Prada [for] a different approach for the brand with this very eclectic collection that winks to the past and looks into the future with fun energy and lots of cool surprises and combinations. Marni [with] a grown up but still very creative proposition for the brand, that maybe opens a new era.

Best presentation concept: The fun, childish and so exclusive set at Bottega Veneta; Moschino [with] the hanged white sheets and clothes referencing the Italian laundry [and] as the expression of a fresh start respecting the roots and the heritage of the brand; the great casting at Sunnei.

Trendspotting: A wide proposition of colors from sunset colors with different saturation tones: blush pinks, oranges, yellows, terracotta and bordeaux. The “greens” and the comeback of khaki to a large range of neutrals. Many nods to feminine and sometimes vintage details like the Claudine [collar], the lavallière [neckline], granny cardigans and flower iconography. Structured shirts and a lot of types of skirts, styled on their own or over a pant, pleated or even kilt styles.

Must-have item: Belts are definitely [key] accessories of the season. Prada tights and leggings, Space Age sunglasses, all the Bottega Veneta bags and shoes and Bally’s shoes.

General comment on the season: The season has been very rich and eclectic in terms of propositions and some collections were the meeting point of various inspirations. We felt it resulted in a “culture clash” spirit, from grunge and rock inspirations to old school vintage ones through ‘70s references. More than ever, design and creation are at the center of the game and we were very sensitive to this research of fun, joy and lightness that some brands want to communicate.

Marissa Galante Frank, fashion director of accessories and beauty, Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collections: Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta was the show that I never wanted to end. Our seats were animal-shaped bean bags; extremely comfortable and nostalgic. For a room full of people who constantly strategize in the fashion business, these chairs were the perfect first step to get everyone in the right state of mind to receive his message. Blazy’s storytelling through his collection and the music that set the tone were completely intoxicating. After his final bow the crowd clapped louder than I had heard it all week. The last time I heard such a resounding round of applause was after Alessandro Michele’s Twinsberg show for Gucci in spring 2023. Prada celebrated individualism with the perfect mix of futuristic and archival inspired pieces. There was surprise and delight with every look.

Best presentation concept: Tod’s celebrated their artisans at their show, “Artisanal Intelligence.” As guests walked into the venue we were greeted with large work tables where Tod’s artisans were creating their iconic Gommino loafers by hand. Their hands were dusted with white plaster which tied back to a giant sculpture by Lorenzo Quinn that served as the backdrop for the runway show. 

Trendspotting: Almost every show had sheerness and transparency across a range of silhouettes. Feminine details such as ruffles, bubble hems and peplums. Candy-colored pastels: pistachio, pink, icy blue, butter yellow. Chocolate brown. Hobo bags, headscarves and tinted sunglasses played into the retro vibes that ran through so many of the shows. Thong sandals were all over the runway, both dressed up and dressed down as a classic flip-flop.

Must-have item: Ferragamo’s bubble cape, Bottega Veneta’s pant skirt, Fendi’s beaded mama bags, Gucci’s bamboo bangles, The Attico x Nike collaboration. 

General comment on the season: This season the Milan designers delivered fashion and fantasy with a capital F. There were so many beautiful new collections that reimagined iconic pieces from season’s past. Archival prints were given a new spin. Heritage Italian house codes were honored and updated, which will certainly attract a new customer. 

Giuseppe D’Amato, buying and merchandising director, Rinascente

Favorite collections: Prada for the high creativity, colors, materials and shape — amazing looks seen on the runway. Bottega Veneta also confirmed to be one of the best, with high craftsmanship and strong novelties hitting the runway.

Best presentation concept: The Attico with the enchanting chandelier venue and Bottega Veneta with the animal-shaped Zanotta [seats].

Trendspotting: Light coat in different fabrics and wide color variation; relaxed and soft tailoring; see-through dresses and tops for a very feminine look enriched with embroideries and applications; a wide development of leather and suede both in top and bottom shapes. For accessories in general, big bags are a must in different variations…[also] super mini bags with chains or crafted buckets. As for shoes, boots and slingbacks.

Must-have item: A big soft Fendi bag, Prada’s colorful coat and metal miniskirt, Gucci’s boots and maxi hat, Bottega Veneta suits with the skirt-slash-pant style.

General comment on the season: Strong focus on ready-to-wear, rather than accessories or shoes, aligned with most brands’ clienteling strategy. All pieces have been enriched by craftsmanship, embroideries and applications. Each item seems to become more special and timeless in line with brands’ elevation strategy.

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: Prada. The brilliance of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons was a demonstration of ideas that engaged in conversation beyond the clothes we saw on the runway. The collection was a triumphant shift from how we typically expect a collection to go down the runway. Gucci. Sabato De Sarno’s vision of casual grandeur was a lesson in elevating the everyday. The attitude of the collection was best exemplified in the finale walk to Fiordaliso’s 1980s hit “Non Voglio Mica La Luna.” Bottega Veneta. Matthieu Blazy has once again brought craft to the forefront. Blazy’s take on new, exaggerated proportions, with playful motifs, paired with updated takes on the Andiamo bags were a standout. 

Best presentation concept: Brunello Cucinelli’s travel-inspired collection featured updated takes on sartorial dressing for women, with cargo and safari influences injected throughout. Diesel’s show space lined the floors and columns with upcycled scraps of denim, invoking the innovative processes the brand uses to treat the material.

Trendspotting: The Great Escape, a glorious splendor of fringe, soft ruffles, botanical prints, luxe linens, and a nod to nautical inspirations, perfect for the global traveler. Etro, Missoni, Max Mara and Loro Piana demonstrated this best with collections that reinterpreted traditional codes of vacation wear. Finding the extraordinary in the casual emerged as a major styling trend from the collections of Prada, Gucci and Tod’s. The unexpected elements made this trend prevalent, with sequin cocktail dresses styled with nylon anoraks or opulent ballskirts paired with T-shirts. A revival of whimsical dressing with romantic twists was prominent, with brands like Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Ferragamo excelled here. Ballet pinks, subdued pastels, revamped volumes and delicate feminine touches characterized this trend. Here, we also saw sheer organzas and delicate lace that offered a fluid and versatile look.

Must-have items: Gucci bamboo jewelry; Fendi Red Wing Boot collaboration; Loro Piana linen cashmere jacket; Ferragamo oversize Hug tote; Brunello Cucinelli artisanal knit in chocolate brown; Prada’s trompe l’oeil pieces, paired with reissued shoe styles from past shows; Tod’s embellished loafers; Bottega bunny motif prints.

Buying process: We have a long-established relationship with the fashion houses of Milan and continue to curate a cohesive assortment for the season, reflected in the spirit of the runway collections.

General comment on the season: It was an energizing week in Milan, showcasing a melting pot of creative ideas and messages. With star-studded front rows and musical performances, what stood out most was that personal style and self-expression took center stage. The standout of the week was Prada, which challenged the concept of the algorithm. If that show taught us anything, it’s that while our digital entities may follow an algorithm, our true sense of personal style cannot be digitized — and that’s a powerful message to put out on the runway.

Marta Gramaccioni, buying director, LuisaViaRoma

Favorite collections: Prada. There is no competition for me; this season Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons won. The idea of not creating a single story but many, taking iconic pieces from the past and simply reoffering them has given life to an exciting mix, very connected to what is happening today outside the catwalks. Bottega Veneta is always a dream: wonderful clothes and geometries, stunning accessories accompanied by flowers that make everything daily and real. The Attico, with its collaboration with Nike and evening dresses worn with a windbreaker. Ferragamo for its ballet shoes and oversize accessories. Gucci for its always very beautiful color palette and the final looks, the long overcoats and trenchcoats with trains. Also worth mentioning is Bally, where Simone Bellotti is starting to make us understand more and more where he wants to go — and we like it.

Best presentation concept: Marni, [where guests sat] on chairs scattered throughout the venue and models walked around and came from all sides. 

Trendspotting: Windbreakers in all colors and fit, to style with daily looks or even the more elegant ones.

Must-have items: The Attico’s “La Passeggiata” bag, which was shown on the runway is a must-have.

Buying process: It will focus more on image-making and statement pieces. A special attention will be dedicated to our New York store, where we try to offer unique total looks capable of satisfying the most demanding customers. The main difference lies precisely in working on a total look with more pieces compared to the individual items that are often offered on the American market.

General comment on the season: There were many interesting fashion shows, beautiful looks and colors. Are we going back to have some fun, maybe?

Tiziana Fausti, owner 10 Corso Como and Tiziana Fausti

Trendspotting: Despite a nod to length, short wins. Sporty jackets with ample volumes combined with super elegant pieces.