A PETA protester disrupted the Hermès show Saturday afternoon, although it went unnoticed by most of the crowd at the Garde Republicaine, which had been transformed into a maze of rooms using wood-framed canvas screens, and carpeting in the color of the season: rose bougainvillea.
Hermès certainly has reason to have a rosy outlook — it has raced beyond its luxury peers in recent months, continuing its double-digit growth.
Part of the resilience is that it is largely logo-less, and doesn’t change much from season to season in delivering rich, covetable classics. That has often meant sleepy and conservative. But creative director Nadège Vanhée has pushed things forward in making the ready-to-wear a bona fide fashion player. And this season, she took another step forward by showing a casual, luxe utility wardrobe with real sex appeal, along with some surprises for the house’s growing younger customer base in the high waist Hermès denim, sportif sheer and opaque layers.
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Versatility was the name of the game, the designer said backstage, demonstrating how a long umber-colored silk mesh tube skirt with side zippers could be adjusted from modest to cheeky. From that concept, sheer pants, tanks and tunics in earthy colors were zipped and unzipped in layers showing hints of skin on a refreshingly wide array of body types.
More traditional cotton utility looks, including jumpsuits, anoraks, polos and pleated pants, were occasionally over complicated with too many zips, snaps, buckles, pockets and pulls. But functionality won out on a bisque-colored calfskin coat that was a three-fer with a drawstring vest, bomber jacket and coat in one, and the new inside-out Birkin bag soft enough to collapse and hug close — or to pack in a suitcase. The clog sandals also looked like must-haves.
Bra tops, bandeaus and underwear have been major trends this fashion month, even at Hermès, where slim Medor belts were buckled at the high waists of boy shorts peeking out from pants and rose colored denim jeans, which made for a cool look and another reason to buy a new accessory.
Vanhée also brought the house silks back to the runway on a printed romper (again, not your mother’s Hermes), and worked bands of leather and organdy to gorgeous effect on dresses that were a little pretty and a little tough. What more could a woman want?
