There’s no denying that we’re in an era where iconic beauty trends of decades past are back in a big way. From the sultry ’90s brown lipstick that once dominated grunge and R&B aesthetics to the defiant return of the infamous side part (challenging the long-term reign of the middle part) it’s clear that beauty is cyclical. The latest obsession in this retro revival? The glossy, defined ’80s Jheri Curl.
The inspiration for this trend stems back to singers Lionel Richie and Michael Jackson, and cult-classic movies such as “Coming To America,” where actors Eric La Salle and Darryl Jenkins are remembered for their iconic “SoulGlo” scene. Flash forward to today, and we’re seeing celebs like Drake sporting the style – defined, loose curls that are so shiny they appear nearly wet. The rebirth of the Jheri curl is just one example of how deeply-rooted certain hairstyles are in Black cultural memory.
To help us learn more about the origin of the Jheri curl and how to wear it today, we enlisted the expertise of hairstylist Nelson Vercher. Ahead, more on what’s behind the trend and how it’s being adapted for the modern era, combining equal parts nostalgia with contemporary styling techniques.
Experts Featured in This Article
Nelson Vercher is a master hairstylist at Rita Hazan Salon in New York City who has worked with celebrities like Kelly Rowland and Naomi Campbell.
What Is a Jheri Curl?
A Jheri curl is a hairstyle that was popular among Black folks during the late 1970s (hitting its peak in the ’80s and early ’90s), featuring loose curls that are extremely shiny. “The style was intended for people with coarse hair texture who wanted a softer, more defined curl, something similar to a perm,” Vercher tells PS.
Where did the trend get its start? The style was the brainchild of chemist and stylist Robert William Redding. Redding’s innovative contributions to hair care extended beyond this iconic look; he was also responsible for developing hair conditioner and pH-balanced shampoo. Marketed primarily to Black men and women, the Jheri curl was promoted as a low-maintenance, wash-and-wear alternative to chemical relaxers. Its promise of easier upkeep made it an attractive option for those seeking a more manageable hair care routine.
However, there were also some notable drawbacks. The style’s signature sheen was achieved through the use of an activator, an oil-based product with some undesirable side effects. It was notorious for staining clothing, furniture, and virtually anything it came into contact with, posing practical challenges for those who embraced the style.
How To Achieve a Jheri Curl
There are several ways stylists create this look – and FYI, these days, there’s none of that irksome activator required. If you have thicker, tight coils (think a 4C type), hair is prepped with a wet styling product, such as curling custard, curled with an iron, then set in place with perm rod hair rollers, explains Vercher. However, if you have a 3C hair type, your stylist will likely first use a mild relaxer to break down the texture a bit, then create more of the desired curl pattern with the perm rod rollers.
For those with thick or extra-frizzy hair, Vercher says prepping hair with a keratin treatment, in lieu of a relaxer, is another option. Ask your stylist for a custom keratin treatment, which also breaks down the hair texture in order to then be able to create more defined curls, he says. “The plus with the keratin is it slowly washes out, so you don’t have to commit [to the style] for too long,” he adds.
You can also DIY a Jheri curl at home. Vercher recommends using a texturizer (a milder form of a relaxer), applying a setting solution, and flat twisting your hair around perm rods, then letting it sit for 10 minutes before rinsing. The big caveat? Any type of chemical treatment can be damaging to the hair, particularly if not done correctly. It’s imperative to follow all product instructions carefully and ideally consult with a pro hairstylist before trying this at home.
Jheri Curl Hairstyles
Back in the day, the style itself was most often worn down, sprayed with lots of “activator juice,” to add mega-watt shine. “The Jheri curl was intended to create wash-and-wear looks for very kinky textures,” Vercher says. “You would see lots of bobs, asymmetrical bobs, or just long curly/wavy hair looks.”
Those are all still good choices today; adding a Jheri curl to these popular styles make for a fun and unexpected twist. To ensure you get that signature sheen, making sure hair is moisturized is key (using both a wash-out and leave-in conditioner is a good way to do just that). You can also amp up the shine by rubbing argan or coconut oil through the hair; just make sure to do so gently, so that the curls stay intact and don’t lose their shape.
Stixx Mathews is a New York City-based freelance beauty writer with 11 years of experience who is passionate about telling stories that merge beauty and pop culture. He enjoys sharing his expert insights about the latest trends and must-have products, with a particular focus on lipstick and fragrance.
