The Roman maison’s newest Bulgari Tubogas jewelry collection harkens back to the Italian jeweler’s affinity in the 1950s for yellow gold. At a time when Art Deco and platinum were the dominant force, Bulgari stood out for its warm, bold yellow-gold creations.
The new collection pays homage to the brand’s complex technique used since the 1940s and modernizes the maison’s timeless styles. Tubogas, which translates to “gas pipe,” is a flexible band created without welding by wrapping strips of gold around a core and interlocking its edges for a tubular look.
Gold stripes are seamlessly interlocked to create the four distinct bracelets, to give different choices to reflect its dynamic consumers — an 18-karat yellow gold version, a contemporary three-gold iteration and an ultra-modern version with diamond studs. The bracelets’ visual appeal makes them desirable to be worn either as stand-alone pieces or in combination with other Bulgari collections.
Here, Fairchild Studio sat down with Jean-Christophe Babin, chief executive officer of Bulgari, to discuss its new Tubogas collection, the inspiration for the collection and its campaign, the brand’s affinity for yellow gold and more.
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Fairchild Studio: Tell us about the latest Bulgari collection and campaign. What are some of its differentiating features?
Jean-Christophe Babin: In September 2024, Bulgari unveiled the Tubogas collection, featuring a modern and avant-garde design that introduces new creativity, particularly in versatile bracelets — something we haven’t explored in the past.
This collection remains deeply rooted in the exceptional craftsmanship that has defined our maison since its inception. The Tubogas technique is deeply embedded in Bulgari’s legacy, it was indeed first introduced in 1948 with the very first Serpenti jewelry watch.
Over the years, we have continued to refine and innovate this valuable expertise, preserving its artisanal essence. We explored the signature by combining it with historical icons such as Serpenti and Monete. With the new Bulgari Tubogas launch, we wanted to give a timeless and innovative touch to the collection — approaching it as a permanent line gradually covering all jewelry segments.
Fairchild Studio: What was the inspiration behind the collection and campaign?
J.C.B.: Drawing inspiration from a modern and visionary collection, the campaign captures this innovative identity through a contemporary and timeless aesthetic. The warm tones echo the yellow hues of gold, again a nod to our origins.
Yellow gold has been a precious metal particularly dear to the maison since the 1950s, when the scene was dominated by the Art Deco style and platinum creations and Bulgari stood out with bold yellow gold designs that recalled the radiant tones and luminous sparkle of Italian landscapes.
The new campaign features the movements of young dancers, whose sinuous shapes evoke the icon’s innate flexibility. The interplay between the dancers and the jewelry — along with the modern aesthetic of the visuals and the timeless atmosphere — perfectly captures the essence of the new Bulgari Tubogas collection.
Fairchild Studio: How does this collection speak to the brand’s aesthetic of merging its heritage for the modern day?
J.C.B.: The new Bulgari Tubogas collection represents the quintessential homage to the iconic craftsmanship technique that made our products recognizable worldwide and it unites heritage and modernity — thanks to Bulgari’s unique visionary approach.
Throughout the magnificent history of our brand, the Tubogas technique has pioneered a new aesthetic vision with its lithe and elegant gold coils. Today, this new collection blends some of Bulgari’s most original and distinctive aesthetic codes, reimagined in a contemporary key.
The collection has been unveiled in the frame of the Bulgari Studio project, the multidisciplinary platform where contemporary creators are invited to reinvent the narrative of some of the maison’s icons: B.zero1, Bulgari Bulgari and Bulgari Tubogas.
As we did with the Bulgari Studio project, with Bulgari Tubogas we leveraged our timeless heritage to embrace the drive for creative originality that has always defined our brand, inspired by the audacious spirit of the Italian genius that is rooted in our DNA.
Fairchild Studio: Who is the modern-day Bulgari woman and how is the brand evolving its offerings for this contemporary consumer?
J.C.B.: The history of Bulgari has repeatedly been intertwined with extraordinary women, celebrating their uniqueness, talents and stories. This has given substance to a new model of beauty, promoting the precious and multifaceted nature of women’s personalities, attitudes and ambitions. We speak to dynamic, glamorous, empowered women who balance multiple roles: professionals, creatives, mothers, leaders and individuals with vibrant lives.
The modern-day Bulgari woman embodies confidence, sophistication and a sense of individuality. She is someone who appreciates luxury and values authenticity, seeking unique pieces that resonate with her lifestyle and identity.
With the new Bulgari Tubogas collection, we aim to cater to a growing market segment in jewelry that values personal expression over traditional gender norms. Its design language focuses on elements — such as sleek lines and no visible logo — that speak to simplicity, elegance and versatility and make it suitable for any taste.
Fairchild Studio: What’s next for the brand?
J.C.B.: We live in an era where everything is very fast, very stimulating and challenging. An era in which different languages can speak to each other and give life to new worlds.
Bulgari is exploring these strategies and creating collections that can be a true bridge between the consistency of the past and the future vision we desire. We want to continue to highlight the rich history and craftsmanship of the brand.
Continue to thrive in the competitive luxury market, attracting both traditional customers and new generations and enlarging our genderless assortment as we see more and more men become interested in jewelry. We wish to increase our desirability and availability in high-potential emerging markets such as India, Saudi Arabia or Mexico, improve e-commerce capabilities and digital marketing strategies towards a customer, such as the luxury one, increasingly expert online.
We know how to create products that are true forms of art and we know how to welcome our customers into Bulgari Hotels around the world — allowing them to live unique and personalized experiences. The past that inspired us, is also the future that will inspire us. In between, anything can happen!
