LONDON — Leathersmith of London is returning to Florence with a burst of color, pattern and fine craftsmanship befitting the lavish Renaissance city.
The brand, which is owned and run by Simon Burstein, offers an eclectic mix of leatherbound books made at the Charfleet Book Bindery in England; hand-embroidered scarves from India, and high-end clothing made mainly in Portugal.
Burstein bought Leathersmith in 2016, shortly after his family sold the multibrand retailer Browns to Farfetch, and his aim is to build the 19th century book and stationery maker into a lifestyle brand.
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At a difficult time for luxury, Burstein is passionate both about the quality of the Leathersmith products, and the price points, too.
He said the values — and craftsmanship — of the bindery which he bought, refurbished and reopened in 2023, apply to the clothing as well.
“We’re making timeless products that are meant to last, and carrying themes through from season to season,” said Burstein in an interview. “And it’s a lifestyle brand, so you’ll always see our models using a notebook.”
The bindery still makes Bibles as well as notebooks and diaries for clients including Liberty, Fortnum & Mason, and more recently, the Maybourne Group, owner of hotels including Claridge’s, The Connaught and The Berkeley in London.
At Pitti, Leathersmith will be showcasing some of the paper products in addition to a lineup of long, statement scarves made from a mix of fine silk and wool.
Some have a patchwork pattern similar to stained glass, while others are reversible and hand-embroidered with diamonds, geometric and organic shapes. They’re the sort of pieces that can transform an outfit and add an arty touch to dark, wintry palettes.
The shirts, he said, are made in the oldest factory in Porto, Portugal, while coats and jackets have been created from sturdy, waterproof wool. Knitted polos have a dash of color (recalling the scarves) on the placket.
Leathersmith also has a new logo, a lion’s head adorned with an “L,” which appears on socks, accessories, and the brand’s website.
The prices are a point of pride for Burstein, who said he’s worked hard to keep everything under 1,000 pounds at retail. Notebooks and diaries range in price from 85 pounds to 200 pounds, while scarves, shirts and knits are all priced between 200 and 300 pounds.
“I want to maintain the affordability, keep it special, and appeal to many customers and markets,” said Burstein, adding that he’s looking to position the brand between Burberry and Paul Smith.
He’s determined to make Leathersmith work on his terms. In an interview in 2016 he told WWD, “I’m not deluding myself. I know it’s going to be a long journey, but I think consumers are always inspired by authenticity. I’m attached to this brand and have worked hard to preserve it.”
Distribution is via the Leathersmith website, Burstein’s two multibrand shops The Place London and The Place Paris, and independent retailers in Italy and Germany.
Burstein said the brand is “at the beginning of its journey” in the U.S., and he’s keen to expand there with plans to show at Shoppe Object in New York, which runs from Feb. 2-4. There, he’ll be showcasing the notebooks, diaries and small leather goods, but his approach, and the brand’s values, will be the same. “Everything at Leathersmith works together,” he said.
