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MILAN — The current social and financial challenges and the changes at brands from Gucci to Jil Sander didn’t dampen retailers’ mood about Milan Fashion Week, which they said still offered plenty of trends and novelty.

“Milan was energizing,” said Marissa Galante Frank, beauty and accessories fashion director at Bloomingdale’s. “Designers celebrated individuality in their own way whether it was maximalist and adorned with embellishment or more understated and layered with rich texture. Artisanal craftsmanship always takes center stage in Milan and this season it played a key role, showing up in unexpected ways, helping to underscore the importance of personal style.”

The week “captured a moment of transition,” said Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director at Nordstrom, “with designers navigating creative exits and debuts while staying grounded in their core identities. There was a clear shift toward dressing up, but with a fresh, modern energy that felt relevant and exciting. The most striking statements came from those who embraced bold risks — Marni, Prada and Diesel stood out by showing that fearless creativity continues to define Milan’s impact on fashion.” 

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Fendi Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Milan Fashion Week

Fendi fall 2025 Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Fendi’s centennial collection by Silvia Venturini Fendi was hailed as a winner and a special emotional moment, and Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ innovative and out-of-the-box thinking was a hit. The artistic tie-ups at Tod’s, Diesel, Etro and Marni was inspiring and engaging, and retailers praised the brands that stayed true to their legacy.

Trends were loud and clear this season, with shearling and bold faux fur, often in dramatic proportions, on almost every runway, in addition to snake prints, eel skin, crocodile and pony hair. Fringes and feathers were added to skirts and outerwear. Texture plays defined the season, and layered and chunky knits took center stage. Sharp tailoring and cinched waists emphasized strong statement coats and suits, but a looser silhouette was still present. Sequins, and appliqué gems, studs and grommets highlighted Italian craftsmanship.

Here is what retailers said about the week:

Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue

Favorite collections: Fendi’s 100th anniversary celebration brought the best of the house’s elegance, craftsmanship and glamour, rooted in family, tradition and craftsmanship; it was elegant and glamorous. Silvia Venturini Fendi touched upon all the Fendi codes as only she can do. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explored femininity and beauty at Prada, offering a chic and authentic take on how women put themselves together in today’s modern world. The paper bag waist-skirts, topcoats over pajama-inspired skirt sets, tailored menswear separates, soft plush faux-fur coats and stoles, knits with charms sewed into the neckline and artisanal pumps were even more beautiful in person. 

Lucie and Luke Meier’s final collection for Jil Sander was an emotional one and also some of their best work, full of strong tailoring, fringe, lace and feathers. Francesco Risso’s “The Pink Sun” collection for Marni was a creative burst of art and fashion. The play on proportion, bold color blocks, texture and the 1920s Deco glam drop-waist gowns created a powerful mix of inspiring and expressive fashion. Other top collections included Brunello Cucinelli and Tod’s.

Best presentation concept: Fendi’s 100th anniversary presentation was a family affair with Silvia’s grandchildren opening the doors to a super-chic show, followed by the touching moment of Silvia’s emotional embrace with her mother on the runway. It was a high energy and feel-good celebration. 

Dolce & Gabbana’s “Cool Girls” takeover of Viale Piave directly off of the runway was high energy, with DJ Victoria De Angelis spinning. The downtown/uptown vibe of the models going from cargos to slip crystal dresses brought the Dolce & Gabbana glamour to the streets with a full-on dance party.

Trendspotting: Lady-like polish with a nod to the ’60s and ’70s, statement outerwear in a bevy of fabrications and textures, corpcore with tailored separates, the return of the skirt suit, fringe, feathers, textured knitwear, furry textured and shearling outerwear and accessories, the faux fur stole, cinched waists and belts, sling backs, mules, pumps and statement boots.

Must-have item: Anything from Fendi’s 100th anniversary collection. 

At Prada, the pajama skirt set ensemble, the treated shearling raincoat with coated PVC for a rainy day, the short-sleeve knit with inset charms, the signature paperbag waist-skirts and the artisanal pump.

General comment on the season: Milan brought the glamour, sophistication and elegance of getting dressed up after a long period of quiet luxury. It was an emotional week as Fendi celebrated its 100th anniversary, and Lucie and Luke Meier announced their departure from Jil Sander after their stunning fall 2025 show. With that, there was a packed lineup of strong fashion for the customer to embrace for the fall season.

Marissa Galante Frank, beauty and accessories fashion director at Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collections: Fendi’s 100th anniversary show was a fashion celebration like no other. Iconic Fendi styles were reimagined, like their “spy” bag in satin, paying homage to the past while foreshadowing their exciting future ahead. Prada inspired us to think about what femininity means today through unexpected twists on the classic button down or LBD. They also introduced incredible new handbags that will appeal to a wide range of customers and certainly become bestsellers. Tod’s was a beautiful example of how texture and color can breathe exciting, interesting new life into minimalism. Max Mara opened their show with a beautiful shade of bordeaux layered from head to toe. 

Best presentation concept: The theme of art was pervasive throughout Milan and played a strong role in many of the presentation concepts. Diesel partnered with more than 7,000 graffiti artists to spray-paint nearly two miles of fabric for their set. The invite was a real spray-paint can, and some attendees tagged the set themselves after Glenn Martens took his final bow. Tod’s celebrated the art of craftsmanship. As we walked into PAC, the contemporary art pavilion where the show was held, we saw Carla Bruni-Sarkozy standing incredibly tall wearing a recycled leather patchwork art installation created by artist Nelly Agassi and holding a large exaggerated sewing needle. Etro collaborated with artist Numero Cromatico, who created a curtain made up of more than 120,000 tiles and stretched across their runway. At Marni, Francesco Risso partnered with visual artists Soldier Boyfriend and Olaolu Slawn and their work was present throughout the venue and in the collection itself. 

Trendspotting: One of the biggest trends is covering your neck — whether that is via a funnel neck coat, scarf coat or silk scarf. Snake print and croc added texture to almost every runway. Fringe was found everywhere, from skirts and outerwear to leather gloves. Shearling and faux fur, especially in an exaggerated trapper hat. Pony hair in rich colors and leopard print. Slim denim. Riding boots. Bag charms and chains. 

Must-have item: Prada’s loafer riding boot hybrid and jeweled knit collar, Ferragamo’s hug clutch in fun new embellishment, Fendi dolls.

Carla Bruni

Carla Bruni at Tod’s Aitor Rosa Sune/WWD

Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion, Neiman Marcus 

Favorite collections: Fendi pulled out all the stops for their 100th anniversary with a collection worthy of celebration. Silvia kicked off the week with a bang. We enjoyed the embroidered and textural elements, belted knitwear paired with beaded skirts and “wow” accessories, including their iconic Baguette bag in countless iterations. Prada challenged conventional ideas of femininity. Embracing undone beauty, great outerwear and proportions. Their pajama details, oversize knit dresses, the little black Prada dress and an exceptional shoe offering all stood out. There was lots to love in Etro’s signature eclectic mix with texture, fluidity and dimension that embodies the season. Luke’s and Lucie’s final collection for Jil Sander was a master class in sleek, modern power dressing. The outerwear at Tod’s was another major standout, including an olive cape coat, red leather trench and raw edge scarf coat, just to name a few. 

Best presentation concept: Presentations this season took us to different hidden Milano jewels, like the sleek domestic scene at Blazé Milano to the striking contrast of modern sculpture in an ornate classic salon at La Double J — each serving as a thoughtful backdrop for its brand’s distinct vision.

Trendspotting: Texture play defines the season, with feathers, fringe, leather, and layered knits taking center stage. Faux fur, fur and shearling appeared everywhere. While colorful accents made a statement at Marni, reworked to couture heights at Fendi and rainproof at Prada. A polished, feminine sensibility emerged through skirt suits and sharp tailoring, with belts — often layered — cinching waists at Max Mara, Tod’s and Brioni. Meanwhile, tailoring took an inside-out turn with visible seams and stitching at Moschino, MM6, Prada and even seen in footwear.

Must-have item: Must haves include Fendi’s embellished Baguette and chevron leather boots. As well as the new Prada open-toe loafer and their short shearling coat. 

General comment on the season: After more serene outings in New York and London, Milan certainly has dialed things up a notch. Dolce & Gabbana’s “cool girl” show featured a live DJ, while Dsquared2’s 30th anniversary show delivered a surprise performance by Doechii, Brunello Cucinelli’s quintessential familia presentation and plenty of A-list celebrity sightings made for an exciting week. Milan had plenty to celebrate.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president women’s fashion and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman

Favorite collections: Applause and appreciation for Fendi’s tour de force 100th anniversary collection, which recalled their rich heritage but ultimately moved forward with the innovative craft and beauty they excel at. Prada stands out, not only for the most forward and thought-provoking proposals on dressing, but also for collectible must haves like the toeless loafer boot, and outer seamed pumps and sweater necklaces. Loro Piana was a master class experience in the ultimate of Italian refinement and materiality. It’s impressive to see year after year the development and progress at this storied brand. Gorgeous. Brunello Cucinelli was one of the most sumptuous and innovative collections within this year’s fascination with texture. Etro’s richly colored neo-bohemian collection perfectly spoke to the remarkable ability here in Italy for the houses’ ability to evolve their signature craft and DNA. 

Trendspotting: Most of the compelling trends we’re falling for tied back to texture, strong color or novelty. Shearling and faux furs, especially when used in dramatic proportions or applied as extreme detailing, took top billing. Other deluxe materials, which will be great for our special clients — extraordinary leathers, lush cashmeres, the new eel skins, customized tweeds, glossy patents, satin and deep velvets. Standout handbags embraced the same lineup of textures. We loved the joy that all the sequins, paillettes, fringe and appliquéd gems brought to the season. We need some sparkle these days clearly. We’re tracking the tough touches for tough times with neo-punk elements, studs and grommets. Outerwear was the top trending category, and the new bomber here morphed into the more couture-like bubble back blouson shape. Slim skirt dressing is a welcome trend away from prior pant-driven seasons. Knitwear, a sweet spot for Italy, looked great with added novelty, like the built-in jewelry at Prada. Trending colors went in two directions — either playful mixes rarely seen for fall [like] bubblegum, lemon, sky blue and brown, or rich autumnal tones [such as] walnut, earth brown, wine, olive and turmeric. Shoes, like ready-to-wear, were slimmer and closer to the body. We are noting the new wedge slides especially in patent, as well as novelty pumps and cool loafer varietals.

Must-have item: A dramatic shearling detail, the double wraparound belt especially worn over outerwear, the mélange cardi-jacket from Missoni, and the clipped toe loafer knee-high boot at Prada. 

General comment on the season: “Quiet luxury,” move over. Novelty, touch me surfaces, remarkable rich and playful colors livened up our buying prospects for fall. No city can deliver on high-touch like Milan, where luxurious materiality meets legacy craft, coupled with provocative design….Milan is weathering all their transitions locally and globally, in style. Can’t wait for September to see where all the changes will take us.

Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director at Nordstrom

Favorite collections: Prada stood out this season with its refined yet unconventional approach, where there were considered fits and clever details that needed a closer look to fully appreciate. Marni made an impact with its vibrant use of color, its playful yet refined approach to dressing up, its beautifully eclectic spirit and a cast that brought the collection to life with real depth and character. Fendi’s 100th anniversary show presented a sophisticated collection that felt deeply personal, reflecting Silvia Venturini Fendi’s thoughtful vision of the house’s evolution. 

Best presentation concept: Milan offered up some unforgettable show formats: Versace’s ’90s throwback with its raised long runway, Dolce & Gabbana’s show that extended onto the streets, sharing the runway experience with the crowd of onlookers, and Marni’s bistro table setup that pulled guests into the show’s electric energy. 

Trendspotting: A “dressed but slightly undone” aesthetic emerged with loose silhouettes, and texture clashing took center stage — think Ferragamo’s lace-and-fur combinations, Marni’s satin-and-feather pairings, or Gucci’s bold interplay of textures. Embellishment for daytime added a sense of everyday opulence, exemplified by Fendi’s refined yet luxurious looks, while delivering a maximalist edge. Red carpet dressing returned in full force, highlighted by Dolce & Gabbana’s dramatic finale and Versace’s all-out glam closing looks. 

Must-have item: The high-vamp pump is making a powerful comeback — it’s the ideal mix of timeless and contemporary. Big faux fur is another must-have, with Prada’s oversize statement pieces offering both warmth and bold style. Animal print accessories are a must, and the leopard heels at Le Monde Beryl’s first Milan presentation stole the spotlight. Adding a touch of personality to your handbag, like Fendi’s leather pencil case and notebook set, brings a sense of everyday joy and individuality. 

Jil Sander Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Milan Fashion Week

Jil Sander fall 2025 Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion at Harrods 

Favorite collections: Fendi stood out as the highlight of Milan Fashion Week, delivering a collection that seamlessly blended heritage craftsmanship with modern sophistication. Celebrating 100 years, the house’s ability to balance tradition with contemporary allure made it a clear front runner of the season.

Best presentation concept: Dolce & Gabbana mastered the art of spectacle, with models seamlessly transitioning from the runway to an open-air setting, where a live DJ set brought the energy of the show to the surrounding crowds. This immersive format blurred the lines between the exclusive fashion world and the city itself, creating a dynamic and inclusive experience.

Trendspotting: Shaggy textures, shearling and faux fur dominated the runways, appearing in full jackets and coats as well as linings, and trims on trousers and skirts. Black and ivory formed the foundation of most collections, while shades of brown — from soft latte hues to deep espresso — emerged as the strongest color story. Where designers did embrace color, red was the undeniable standout, ranging from bright scarlet to deep bordeaux. As a natural complement to the shaggy trend, leather and suede were omnipresent and not just restricted to outerwear pieces. Chunky, enveloping knitwear added to the season’s theme of tactile comfort and understated luxury.

Must-have item: A beautifully crafted shearling coat is set to be the ultimate wardrobe investment for the season, embodying both warmth and timeless elegance.

General comment on the season: The mood of Milan Fashion Week felt like a direct continuation of the menswear fall 2025 collections presented in January. This was a season of transition, with several major houses in limbo — some lacking a creative director, while others presented what may be their last collection under current leadership. As a result, many collections leaned toward caution rather than bold reinvention. Yet even within this sense of restraint, the week reaffirmed Milan’s status as a hub for exceptional craftsmanship and enduring style.

April Hennig, chief merchant at Moda Operandi

Favorite collections: Prada’s collection challenged the ideals of beauty through subverted manipulation and the reworking of fabrication and silhouettes. The Meiers’ final lineup at Jil Sander — perhaps their best collection yet — was an expertly executed mash-up of artful, punk and glam elements. Ferragamo was romantically cool and full of many surprising yet sophisticated touches that elevated the collection. Versace reinterpreted ‘90s house codes with a powerful energy.

Best presentation concept: Prada’s multilevel scaffolding was industrial and impactful; Dolce & Gabbana’s livestream video backdrop of cool girls literally brought style to the streets; Carla Bruni-Sarkozy embodying the craftsmanship at Tod’s, and Blazé Milano’s intimate yet chic Milanese apartment presentation setting.

Trendspotting: Dressed-up daywear continues to be the general approach to the season, and the Italian houses proudly embraced and modernized classic iconography (Versace’s barocco-lined sculptural minis, Missoni’s reinvented spacedye). The ubiquity of fur-like shearling continued in Milan and appeared on almost every runway, from Prada to Gucci to Fendi to Etro. Monochrome feathers added glamorous interest at Jil Sander and Ferragamo. Designers elevated utility outerwear — from bombers at Missoni and Dolce, to draped capes and ponchos at Tod’s and Max Mara — while denim was printed, embellished and reworked at Versace and Etro. Punk styling of stuffed gloves and shoes, and doubled belts added rebellious edge at Jil Sander, Versace and Max Mara.

Must-have items: Prada’s loafer-boot hybrid and charming sweater collar necklaces, Jil Sander’s mixed-media lace and organza inset skirts, shearling boleros from Ferragamo, Jimmy Choo’s calf hair boots (a collaboration with Connor Ives), Versace’s range of pieces featuring punk-western stud flap pockets.

General comment on the season: Given that the majority of the Italian houses are in a state of creative transition, brands were focused on wearability and reinforcing brand codes.

Ferragamo Fall 2025 Ready-To-Wear Collection at Milan Fashion Week

Ferragamo fall 2025 Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Bosse Myhr, director of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear buying at Selfridges

Favorite collections: The Prada collection was a favorite for sure. Each look desirable. The outerwear in particular was a highlight.

Best presentation concept: The Dsquared2 anniversary show was a huge production show — musical performances, special appearances and Naomi Campbell closing the show. A fitting show to celebrate the brand.

Trendspotting: Eveningwear was present in most shows — at Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and Roberto Cavalli, to just name a few of the brands executing eveningwear excellently. 

Must-have items: Every look at the Max Mara show felt very commercially desirable and sure to be on the wish list for a lot of our customers. 

New talent: The Milan fashion hub put on by the Camera Nazionale Della Moda is always a must stop for me and the team to check out the amazing talents coming from all across Italy. 

General comment on the season: Milan has once again bridged the link of creativity and commerciality artfully and successfully, cementing its status as one of the most important fashion weeks in the world. 

Giuseppe D’Amato, buying and merchandising director at Rinascente

Favorite collections: Prada for the femininity and new glamour aesthetic, Dolce & Gabbana for the coolness and strength of each single look, and Fendi for the 100-year celebration and journey through the house codes.

Best presentation concept: Prada’s industrial concept and Dolce & Gabbana’s show on the street.

Trendspotting: Daywear becomes more elevated through reinterpretations of key streetwear pieces in a stronger way. More denim (washed, printed, with big shapes), full leather looks, wide variations of outerwear in many different fabrics and with tons of special embellishments are the key trends for this new daywear. On the opposite side, there’s still the very feminine and sensual look, with dresses, see-through fabrics, embroideries and applications — all played with some elements of tailoring.

Must-have items: Fendi’s Spy bag, Dolce & Gabbana’s crystal dress, leather or embellished outerwear, cozy knitwear.

General comment on the season: Maximalism took over at most of the runway shows and presentations. After a period of quieter and cleaner looks, designers are going back to the DNA and brand codes in a very strong way. No one is following trends anymore, but the real trend is [in the] identity and personal interpretation of glamour.

Marta Gramaccioni, buying director at LuisaViaRoma

Favorite collections: Jil Sander’s show was particularly emotional, marking the farewell of the two designers in a dark, almost haunting atmosphere. MM6 also stood out — just as for the men’s collection. The brand is on a perfect trajectory: modern, sophisticated, well-priced and always staying true to the Margiela identity while adding a fresh twist that makes the collection highly desirable. It was my absolute favorite show.

Best presentation concept: Fendi’s 100-year celebration deserves a special mention, honoring a century of craftsmanship and innovation. Prada also delivered a deeply intimate message, exploring and redefining the essence of feminine beauty in today’s world. Another notable moment was Bottega Veneta’s event — intimate and conceptual, without presenting a collection. It was a reminder that the brand typically holds its runway show on Saturday evening, adding an intriguing element to the week.

Trendspotting: This season, key trends include tousled, effortless hair; classic pajamas reinterpreted with new shapes and volumes; fur in all its variations, and sharper, more structured tailoring reminiscent of the ’60s. We also saw a hint of color here and there, breaking up the dominance of neutrals.

Must-have items: For next winter, fur — whether real or eco — is a must-have in all its forms. I would definitely invest in a minimalist eco-fur coat, structured like a classic overcoat.

General comment on the season: This was a season of “second acts” — new designers settling into their roles and proving their vision. MM6 was the strongest, Francesco Murano impressed, Sportmax felt right, and Blumarine finally aligned with its heritage. On the bigger side, Ferragamo delivered a solid collection, and Prada was deeply moving.

Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: Prada consistently challenges traditional conventions of femininity. The way Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons manipulate fabrications and play with shape and silhouette resulted in a collection ripe for personal innovation. Fendi’s centennial anniversary was a celebration of the brand’s rich legacy. With an all-star cast and reinterpretations of iconic Fendi codes, the collection served as a tribute that will be remembered. Brunello Cucinelli continues to evolve traditional menswear tailoring into its women’s collections. The expanded eveningwear offering, crafted from artisanal knits and intricate embroideries, was a standout, and we look forward to seeing its further development.

Best presentation concept: Tod’s collection, showcased at Milan’s PAC, featured an art installation of Carla Bruni-Sarkozy wrapped in a recycled leather blanket, one of the most striking statement concepts of the week.

Trendspotting: An equestrian theme continues to shine through the collections of Tod’s and Brunello Cucinelli, with a focus on heritage plaid fabrications and Highland shearling, all styled with supple leather satchels and sophisticated riding boots. Textural layering was key this season, with a strong emphasis on knitwear as outerwear, exemplified by Alberto Caliri’s debut at Missoni. Shaggy outerwear, done in faux fur or shearling, was another dominant trend.

Tailored outerwear remains a runway staple, with a heightened focus on shape and silhouette at Max Mara and Ferragamo. Finally, reimagined codes of femininity and eclecticism were best demonstrated at Prada, Etro and Dolce & Gabbana, where unexpected pairings and silhouettes were styled in an effortlessly sophisticated way.

Must-have items: The return of the Fendi Spy bag, in satin; Prada pajama shirt and skirt paired with the patchwork shearling jacket; Missoni’s knit cardigan; Tod’s knee-high boots; Max Mara shawl-collar cashmere knits, and Brunello Cucinelli Duo bag.

Buying process: We have spent as much time in showrooms as at the shows, continuing to strengthen our relationships with our Italian partners. As we navigate this market, we are encouraged by what we’ve seen, and our buys will reflect the pieces we believe our customers will covet next season.

General comment on the season: Milan was a week filled with tradition and tribute, as brands celebrated milestone collections while honoring their deep-rooted legacies in Italian fashion. With Gucci’s design-led collection and the recent announcement of Luke and Lucie Meier’s departure from Jil Sander, both brands now awaiting new creative directors, we are eager to see what the future holds. Overall, the season emphasized craftsmanship, materiality, and individuality, leaving us inspired to curate the best of the collections for our customers.

Tiziana Fausti, owner, 10 Corso Como and Tiziana Fausti

Favorite collections: Prada is always outside of the crowd, which leads to expressing the most interesting subjects. Fendi was the most sophisticated. Marni is always alternative. A pleasant daily from Bally.

Best presentation concept: Fendi for its centennial was one of the most anticipated events of the week. The engagement of the city and the public outside the Dolce & Gabbana show was very exciting.

Trendspotting: Shearling, hair, furs, eco-fur, menswear fabrics for jackets and outerwear that define the look.

Must-have items: Coats, blazers and bombers with contrasting details. Bags, stoles and accessories in eco-fur, also in a colored version.

Buying process: This delicate moment requires absolutely buying in person to better approach style and fabrics.

General comment on the season: Despite the lack of some brands on the runways, Milan Fashion Week offered interesting ideas in a context that will continue to Paris, where we will see the offers of young designers including Hodakova and Duran Lantink that we are exhibiting at 10 Corso Como as part of The Waves until March 30.

Kate Benson, chief merchant at Harvey Nichols

Favorite collection: Prada delivered an exceptional collection this season, with a grown-up interpretation of modern beauty and a very different structural approach to what was seen elsewhere. Simone Bellotti’s designs for Bally were also a standout moment, reinforcing his precise aesthetic, showcased perfectly on the 16th floor of the modernist Torre Velasca.

Best presentation concept: Inspired by the late Pina Bausch, the Ferragamo show, with its rose petal strewn runway, was a wonderful sequel to last season’s ballet. Marni’s transformation of their cavernous showroom into a speakeasy-style bar was a revelation. The close proximity of the models working their way through the audience created an energetic intimacy around the collection.

Trendspotting: Autumnal tones of burgundy, olive, mushroom and mocha formed the overarching palette, highlighted with bold shades of butter yellow, rich purples and scarlet. Bows, fringing and tassels added extravagant texture, as did faux fur, which was evident on a number of runways from Gucci to Bally. Tonal dressing, combined with layered texture, defined many of the Milanese collections. 

Must-have items: Standout skirts falling either just above or below the knee. Beaded and metallic pieces or those in unexpected contrasting colors to add an elegance and flair to otherwise pared-back looks. Bold, statement outerwear, whether it’s a dramatic faux fur trench from Gucci or a buttery leather red coat from Tod’s, was very much the anchor of many collections this season. Heels are back, with the most impactful being patent pumps with elongated points in a wide variety of shades

New talent: Lorenzo Serafini’s debut collection for Alberta Ferretti paid homage to the original ultra-feminine vision of the brand’s eponymous founder. Whilst not ostensibly a new talent, having worked as the creative director of Philosophy, it was exciting to see him take the reins, injecting a fresh vision of romanticism. 

General comment on the season: More than is evident most seasons, the oscillating movements of the fashion world were apparent in Milan. Joyous centennial celebrations for Fendi, an emotional farewell for the Meiers at Jil Sander and other rumored creative director moves amounted to a season of poignancy, but also possibilities.