MILAN — Despite the lackluster economic outlook and gloomy geopolitical scenario — reflected by several pro-Palestine demonstrators outside fashion show venues — the mood in Milan was one of hope and change, according to retailers, who were left energized by the debuts at Gucci, Jil Sander, Versace and Bottega Veneta, all described as strong and directional. The week closed with Giorgio Armani‘s last collection, a moving moment that drew praises for the late designer.
“Milan flipped the script and delivered all that we desired with a new designer every day. This has never happened in the history of Milan Fashion Week,” said Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. “It is a new day with so much new energy and vision this season with debuts from Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Demna at Gucci, Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander and Dario Vitale at Versace. It was a great moment with invigorating energy to all that we saw this week. Giorgio Armani’s 50th anniversary and final farewell to the King of Italian fashion was beyond moving.” Patel added that the exhibition “Giorgio Armani: Milano, per amore” was “Mr. Armani’s last gift to us all. A true legend and icon forever in our hearts.”
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Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman, concurred saying that Armani’s “last collection poignantly closed the week. Fashion and Milan will never be the same. We owe so much to this talented and passionate man who gave his life to fashion, and changed it forever.” She added that “Milan affirmed that fashion is a forward-leaning long game, and that optimism and reinvention are the best routes to get there. We felt it in all of the smart and provocative, sometimes careful, sometimes disruptive, but ultimately courageous debuts. Unexpected and exciting uses of color, literally ‘colored’ our experience of the season.”
Retailers will have plenty to choose from for next spring. Transparencies, enhanced by organza, lace and chiffon, as well as mesh contributed to soft and feminine designs, which were at times further embellished through fringes, beading and feathers that telegraphed Italian craftsmanship. Car coats, short skirts and strong shoulders were cited by buyers, as well as unexpected color pairings, sporty anoraks and utility jackets. Floral patterns, knee-length dresses and pencil skirts were also key offerings.
Here is a roundup of comments from retailers in Milan:
Marissa Galante Frank, fashion director at Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta was an undeniable favorite, as Louise Trotter’s historic debut ushered in a new era for the house under its first female creative director. The collection had soul and paid homage to Bottega Veneta’s rich history while celebrating a new feminine perspective. Fendi was a collection filled with joy and optimism — bright colors and playful embellishments were sprinkled throughout the runway without losing their meticulous attention to detail and iconic craftsmanship.
Best presentation concept: Gucci’s “The Tiger” short film was an exciting preview of what might be to come from Gucci under Demna’s lead. Gucci’s glam meets Demna’s edge. Giorgio Armani was the grand finale to Milan Fashion Week. It was an emotional show held at Pinacoteca di Brera where the Giorgio Armani exhibition “Milano, per amore” will be running through January. There were hundreds of lanterns lit in Mr. Armani’s honor and a piano player playing live as the models walked. After the show we were invited to walk through the exhibit while the museum was closed to the public. It was a beautiful way to honor Mr. Armani and the tremendous impact he had on the global fashion community.
Trendspotting: Transparency was present on almost every runway. Organza, lace, chiffon and mesh was used by designers to create a range of soft yet powerful silhouettes. Embellishment, feathers and beading played a key role across accessories and knits. Long corded pendants, many of them with little pouches as the pendant, were the jewelry item of note. Fringe appeared in many ways from the edges of silk scarves to knit dresses and statement skirts.
Must-have item: Fendi’s new peekaboo bag with colorful paillette sequins inside, Bottega Veneta trenchcoats with Intrecciato details, Prada’s satin pouch, Dolce & Gabbana embellished striped pajamas.
Buying process: With new creative directors bringing optimism to heritage houses, we will approach buys with a fresh perspective — balancing legacy pieces with directional newness that we know will resonate with Bloomingdale’s clients.
General comment on the season: Milan this season was about both fresh beginnings and poignant endings. Louise Trotter’s debut at Bottega Veneta brought a soulful, feminine perspective to the house’s rich history, while Giorgio Armani’s farewell was a moving tribute to his lasting impact on fashion. Across the runways, joy and optimism came through — playful embellishments, sheer layers of organza and lace, and the return of feathers, fringe and bold jewelry all pointed to a season of creativity and craft. For Bloomingdale’s clients, it’s an exciting moment of romance and reinvention.
Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta’s debut collection was stellar. Her focus on craft and artisanal work weaving together resulted in a super luxe and chic lineup of fashion. From minimal to maximalism, the heritage could be found in each piece. The signature Intrecciato technique was at the heart of everything. She really nailed it. Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons have no shortage of great designs to tap into. The scaling back and simplification of how we get dressed played with proportion and silhouette. The oversize leather anoraks over taffeta bubble skirts, the colorblocking, the satin drawstring pouches and the crystal fringed pumps felt like a symphony. Demna is ushering in a fresh vision and set the foundation for the new Gucci with his red-carpet movie debut of “The Tiger” that caused a buzz. The glamour and history of Gucci was embedded in the prelude of what’s to come. Simone Bellotti delivered a razor-sharp collection at Jil Sander with precision. The slit details in the pencil skirts, sleek coats and color block knits and the mille-feuille dresses tapped into the codes of Jil Sander with great accuracy. Other top shows included Loro Piana, Fendi and Armani.
Best presentation concept: Demna for Gucci’s short film “The Tiger” by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn was genius and original. The devil wears…Dolce & Gabbana — the Miranda Priestly and Nigel sightings were iconic.vvv
Trendspotting: Skirts were everywhere. Prada’s ruffle back and balloon skirts felt directional. We also saw Jil Sander’s slim skirts and Fendi’s bold color pops. Elevated sport motifs appeared at Fendi, Brunello Cucinelli and Tod’s with anoraks and track jackets crafted in technical fabrics such as nylon, taffeta and organza. Lingerie details from slipdresses to slip skirts, briefs and bras were seen throughout the week. Fringe was everywhere and Bottega Veneta’s sculptural recycled fringe skirts in red and chartreuse green were sublime. Boxy tailored jackets paired back with skirts brought a softer feel to traditional suiting. Colorblocking with punchy pops of fuchsia, marigold, chartreuse green, turquoise and orange were seen throughout the week as well as balloon skirts and pants at Etro. Punchy florals made a statement. Accessories included the Frame bag in softer leather and shapes, soft and sculpted clutches, the drawstring pouch, thong sandals, the demi pump and mules.
Must-have item: Prada’s leather parka with balloon skirt and one of the ruffle-lace skirt combos. Prada’s drawstring pouch. Bottega Veneta’s fringe navy sculpted leather shell and fringe skirt, the red ombré fringe skirt, the fringe Intrecciato clutch and thong sandals. Jil Sander’s white slit skirt with pink knit.
Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear at Printemps
Favorite collections: Jil Sander marked the start of the week with a ’90s well-embodied collection, a nostalgia from Jil’s own debut through the eyes of Simone Belotti. Bottega Veneta’s debut of Louise Trotter was the best show of the season, how she managed to impose her identity while offering a coherent continuity is brilliant. Prada was stunning and ahead of the trend as always, playing with the brand’s codes and colors associations.
Best presentation concept: Brunello Cucinelli always offers the best home and cozy feeling, like a family gathering around elegance. Fabiana Filippi’s dinner and presentation was sophisticated and warm, like an inspiring friends’ dinner.
Trendspotting: Office: quite serious and first degree while playing with some codes, shirting and tailoring being strong, silhouette accessorized around these elements (Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Prada). Feminine elegance: a true return to feminine beauty and sophistication through beautiful materiel, leather, mature color palette (Gucci, Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta, Sportmax, Fabiana Filippi). Lingerie: sensuality remains very present and thrives, lingerie, bras, transparency are present in almost every show (Max Mara, Prada, The Attico, Ferragamo).
Must-have item: A ’90s tailored jacket from Jil Sander, Prada; a technical fabric item from Bottega Veneta, Prada, Fendi; ballet sneaker from Fendi, Jimmy Choo, Jil Sanders; a perfect white tank from Umit Benan; a new version of the bra from Prada; an office skirt from Jil Sander, Prada; an XXL jacket from Bottega Veneta; a pouch bag worn under the arm from Ferragamo, Prada, Bottega Veneta, and wide beige jeans from Brunello Cucinelli.
Budgets: Budgets are flat with a buffer for newness around quality products.
Buying process: First attending to shows and building the vision with the whole team around the trends, our customers’ expectations and the message we want to send. Then organizing budget and big bets. And having fun to develop and nourish the strategy by being open to brand creativity and following advice from our partners, always having the customers interest in mind.
General comment on the season: Milan was full of optimism, less dark than last year with a new color palette, more rich, more sophisticated. It sends a clear message that women are both bold and vulnerable, she is in her truth and embody it. Lingerie still shows a tenderness and a sensuality that she does not want to let go while she is empowered by an office suit. A wave of nostalgia is there with new debuts and strong houses DNA revisited. Carrying the good from the past in a future full of hope.
Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: We were excited to see a woman’s touch at Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta. All of the focus was building on the extraordinary craft and artful legacy we have come to look to the house for. She did not disappoint. Versace was a fashion wake-up call. We all sat up and collectively knew we were part of a moment that counted. The fresh experience of the Pinacoteca Museum, filled with romantic lush Renaissance masterpieces, spoke to the rebirth and renaissance of Versace itself. Dario’s debut for Versace was all in the mix; the Gianni refs, the vintage-y layering and eclecticism, the youthful offhand sexiness and dare-to-be different vibe. The collection will definitely break down into lots of must-have pieces for cool fashion lovers. Prada still holds its place at the apex of influential fashion with its smart mix of the intellectual and the practical. The best color mixes in the business can be found here, as well as great interplays of sexual archetypes. The drop-down handled croc ladybag will be an “It” bag, as will the free hanging bralettes and suspender ghost skirts. Loro Piana was a best-of-class experience of what authentic Italian luxury can achieve. The fabrics and styling were exquisite and are evolving remarkably each season from its core legacy. The juxtaposition with the early Italian modern art created an aesthetic heaven. Simone Bellotti’s Jil Sander was a successful evolution of the beloved codes of Jil, with just enough invention to make it click.
Best presentation concept: Our fashion show tickets also gave us an incredible entrée into some of Milan’s hidden gem museums where we were treated to some of the most luscious, artistic masterpieces and treasures as symbolic backdrops for the fashion — thank you to Loro Piana, Versace and Armani. Gucci’s disruptive format for its debut via an advanced lookbook and film screening signals the importance of innovative marketing in resetting and projecting a brand.
Trendspotting: Top trends that will impact our buys include unexpected colors, often blocked or used as a pop in accessories. Down-to-earth neutrals, chocolate and khaki grounded numerous collections. Femininity played out importantly, with sensuous draping, sheer layers, interesting uses of lace, lingerie elements, kitten heels and long handled Lady bags. Leather dressing, especially as cropped or blouson ‘80s-style bombers, and artisanal macramé, mesh and woven textures also stood out. Fringe and feathers were important decorative details. Scarves and scarf-inspired dressing is noted. Accessories are getting more important, including the cord necklace, organic metal earrings, net and macramé bags and the unexpected, unmatching accent color accessory.
Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion at Harrods
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta was, without doubt, the highlight of the week. Louise Trotter’s debut felt strong, assured and already deeply in tune with the house. These were clothes to covet now and to cherish forever, combining exceptional workmanship with a sense of ease and refinement. Fendi also stood out with a beautifully vibrant color palette and a summer energy that ran through the collection. Sportswear detailing met embellishment and craftsmanship, and the accessories in particular were extremely compelling.
Best presentation concept: Gucci staged not a show, but a cultural moment. The premiere of Demna’s Gucci began with a brown carpet arrival and unfolded with a film screening starring Demi Moore. It was an inventive, disruptive way to launch his debut capsule — only 37 looks — and ensured standout visibility in a crowded season.
Trendspotting: Color was everywhere — bold, bright, clashed and blocked. At the same time, monochrome looks in pure black or white dominated, showing the season’s full contrasts. References to the ’80s and ’90s were strong, and we saw a constant dialogue between minimalism and maximalism, tailoring, modesty and sheerness. This was a week of debuts at the houses. Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta was the most impactful by far, showing a mastery that belied the fact it was her first collection for the brand. Demna’s debut at Gucci marked a reset of extraordinary scale, while Simone Bellotti’s work at Jil Sander showed a sensitive and elegant vision for the house.
Must-have item: Bottega Veneta delivered many instant wish-list pieces, particularly the Intrecciato coats and jackets that will no doubt build immediate waiting lists.
General comment on the season: It was a season of transition. Some designers arrived with a fully realized and compelling vision, others showed strong starting points that will take time to evolve. That is the natural process of inheriting and redefining a house. Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta deserves particular recognition: Her collection felt less like a debut and more like the work of someone already fully established within the codes of the house. She balanced clean, wearable daily pieces with those of pure artistry and drama — a collection that resonated on every level.
Isabelle Fine, head of women’s fashion at Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche and La Samaritaine
Favorite collections: Prada, Jil Sander, Bottega, Versace and Etro.
Best presentation concept: Gucci, with Demna’s arrival. Projecting his short film and those character portraits was such an interesting concept to start. Etro’s live concert was good; it made the clothes feel alive and was an immersive experience. Loro Piana’s presentation at Palazzo Citterio, celebrating color and the link between art and fashion.
Trendspotting: There were a lot of bold colors in the collections, transparency and lightness. Layering and volume were also key.
Must-have items: Functional utility shirt, a versatile midi skirt and a light, sheer top. The tailoring showed more fluidity and micro-shorts are a must.
General comments on the season: A dynamic season with the arrival of new artistic directors bringing a renewed energy, respecting the brands’ history while still being creative and innovative. Lots of energy and movement for this fashion week, also with consistency from the established brands.
Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear at Selfridges
Favorite collections: Prada was a standout — the colors, shapes and overall silhouette direction were striking, and the set design by architect Rem Koolhaas added a powerful layer to the experience. Customers will be eager to put full looks together from this collection. Bottega Veneta also impressed: Louise Trotter’s debut was elegant and confident, with strong ready-to-wear, visible craftsmanship and beautifully crafted accessories.
Best presentation concept: Dolce & Gabbana made a theatrical splash with Meryl Streep as Miranda Priestly, joined by Stanley Tucci — a clever casting twist that blurred fiction and fashion on the runway. The stunt felt both playful and strategic, amplifying attention to the show. Sunnei’s auction-style presentation with Christie’s was another standout: inventive, immersive and memorable.
Trendspotting: Color was everywhere in Milan — from bold blocking to unexpected tonal mixes. Cutouts also remained strong, giving collections a modern edge and sense of ease.
Must-have item: Novelty skirts are key — like the slit styles at Jil Sander, which felt directional yet wearable. The Jil show overall marked a promising restart under its new creative director.
Budgets: We’re confident this season, especially with Milan delivering commercially strong developments across several shows. The energy felt both creative and business minded.
Buying process: We’re excited to experience the collections in the showrooms, where the depth and variations beyond the runway will be crucial. Customers increasingly appreciate show pieces offered in multiple colors and fabrications, giving them a chance to personalize the runway look.
General comment on the season: Milan was strong this season — with several notable debuts that felt fresh and well-received. Versace created a true moment in its restart, stronger than before and infused with an unmistakable ’80s spirit. Menswear also had a visible presence across collections, underlining Milan’s evolving role in shaping the broader fashion narrative.
Rickie De Sole vice president, fashion director at Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta: Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta was evolution, not revolution — refined, tactile and deeply confident in its craftsmanship. Jil Sander: Simone’s debut at Jil Sander delivered a crisp reset: modernity with thoughtfulness and precision. Prada reimagined the uniform with unexpected pairings — rugby coats, mixed media wrap skirts and gloves that felt both nostalgic and new. Tod’s captured the modern Italian mood with bold stripes, impeccable leather and a lifestyle sensibility that felt elevated yet effortless. Ferragamo leaned into languid elegance — soft silhouettes, rich color and covetable bags that reinforce the house codes.
Best presentation concept: Versace’s show stayed with me. The venue — [Pinacoteca Ambrosiana on] Via Cardinale Federico — did more than set the scene, it helped tell the story. From the casting to the small vignettes scattered throughout the space, every detail felt intentional and added to the narrative. Even the front row leaned in, with celebrities wearing the new collection. The entire experience brought Versace’s new era to life. For all the new beginnings this season, it’s impossible not to acknowledge the profound sense of loss following Mr. Armani’s passing. The Giorgio Armani show at Pinacoteca di Brera was a moving tribute and an elegant close to the week.
Trendspotting: Color. Joyful fashion was everywhere in Milan. We saw vibrant palettes at Fendi and a bold, high-impact outing from Versace. The car coat is making a strong return this season, alongside spring outerwear that’s both practical and refreshingly modern. Designers leaned into flourishes — embellishment, fringe and texture — especially at Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta and Etro, where the details added movement and personality. I loved how spring-like the collections felt overall. Mini hemlines and bold shoulders dominated the runways. Missoni captured that mood beautifully with glamorous, chic beachwear. It was a standout show, and the bags were fantastic. In a season where optimism matters, these collections gave us something to respond to — visually, emotionally and commercially.
Must-have item: The bold shapes, unexpected textures and playful details make the Fendi bag a must-have this season. It’s an accessory that brings joy, sparks curiosity and instantly lifts the whole look.
General comment on the season: There’s a sense of optimism running through the collections this season. Despite broader challenges, designers are leaning into joy — through color, embellishment and playful confidence. You felt it in the vibrant palettes and tactile textures and in the kinetic start from Demna at Gucci. That buoyancy matters. It energizes us, and it’s what makes fashion feel alive.
April Henning, president at Moda Operandi
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta stood out as sublimely chic, artful and elegant — proving to be in the exceptionally capable hands of Louise Trotter who continued the thoughtful craftsmanship of her predecessor while lending a softer and cleaner approach. Elsewhere a fresh sense of femininity took shape as Prada offered a free and fluid way of dressing with unexpected silhouettes and pairings, while Fendi leaned into a youthful and playful energy through use of unexpected color and mixed fabrications.
Best presentation concept: Cinematic elements of varying degrees created memorable experiences this week. “The Tiger” film premiere, complete with its A-list cast in attendance — set the scene and amplified excitement for Demna’s prologue collection at Gucci. Versace’s immersive and intimate set, complete with planted attendees sporting Dario Vitale’s new direction and lived-in vignettes, added to the buzzy allure of his first outing. And the movies came to life with a surprise appearance of Miranda Priestly sitting front row at Dolce & Gabbana.
Trendspotting: The Milan collections offered a whimsy, [a] sense of artful expression: unexpected color pairing at Prada and Versace and mixed prints at Etro, airy feathers at Bottega and Ferragamo, wispy organza at Fendi and Max Mara, silk scarf styling at Gucci and Tod’s. A continuation of lingerie dressing through bra tops at Prada, Jil Sander and Versace and the use of lace in several collections. Casual outerwear including sporty anoraks, techy nylon blousons and utility jackets at Prada, Fendi [and] Versace. Knee-length dresses and pencil skirts, halter necklines and micro minis evoked a hint of ’90s nostalgia.
Must-have item: Bottega Veneta’s feathered intricate clutches and pointed-toe clogs. Suspender skirts, satin pouches and elbow-length gloves of all colors at Prada. Embellished Peekaboo and Baguette [bags] at Fendi. Studded and fringed suede jackets at Etro and oversize leather bombers at Versace. Horsebit pocket denim and the return of monogram, and head scarves at Gucci. Tassel fringe scarves at Ferragamo and leather bordered foulards at Tod’s.
General comment on the season: This season’s round of creative director debuts injected a welcome sense of anticipation and excitement to the Milan shows. The task of reinvigorating Italian houses, each with their own uniquely iconic markers, requires varying degrees of respect for the past and new ideas for the future. It was a week that balanced spectacle with substance, setting the tone for the freedom ahead.
Alix Morabito, global buying director at Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Versace, Bottega Veneta, Prada, MM6, Attico, Jil Sander. Dario Vitale has opened a new chapter for Versace: It was intimate and warm, it was generous and spontaneous, it was fun and audacious. [With] the location, the collection and the after show, Vitale showed his strong storytelling ability, putting the brand back into people’s life and emphasizing Italian culture as well as Gianni’s ethos. He stayed true to the brand’s spirit while introducing a new vocabulary that feels unique in today’s market. It was a very rich, complete and eclectic collection in terms of merchandising that speaks to a wider audience, with highly desirable items such as the striped pants, the leather jackets and body-conscious dresses.
At Bottega Veneta, Trotter managed the right evolution for the brand (that didn’t need a revolution). With her strong attention to details, her passion for savoir faire and research, and her sense of femininity she proposed a very sophisticated and rich collection. I love how she infuses in her style a certain “italianity” and this mix fits perfectly to the brand.
Prada was a firework of colors with wonderful combinations. They translated femininity and sensuality into wonderful wrapped patchwork skirts and very light bras inspired by collar jackets. Beautiful car coats or oversize jackets, mixed with long gloves emulate the attitude Miuccia and Raf love.
MM6 was splashing Margiela references into a ’70s mood. This combo with a strong development on each RTW category, shoes and bags, widened the vocabulary for the brand, staying tuned to their young audience. The Attico was taking another dimension through a much bigger set up. Also we observe a great evolution in the collection. It was definitely more grown-up while keeping the edge and sensuality. The balance was very well executed.
Thanks to Simone Bellotti, we can rediscover Jil Sander in its original design. Through leather pieces, technical fabrics, knitwear, mix of bright and pastel colors, straight volumes with specific construction, Bellotti reinforced the foundation of the brand that he will [continue] to explore.
Best presentation concept: At Versace, the presentation became an intimate show for friends at la Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, a museum created after an important donation of art pieces, such as Caravaggio, Leonardo da Vinci and Raphael. It took us into the Italian Renaissance with some realistic installations, in echo to the Gianni Versace house, where a lot of details were to be discovered….Then the after drink at Peck, a Milanese institution, was a generous moment outside of time and pressure. Plus, the interactive auction at Sunnei that opens the new chapter for the brand, selling the designers.
Trendspotting: Vintage inspiration from ‘60s to ‘80s; femininity is still very present; lingerie vocabulary with a lot of lace; sport and technical; contrast and mix and match; bold colors combos and pastels.
Must-have item: Lingerie; high-waist leggings and pants; cardigans; skirts; leather jackets; colored shoes.
General comment on the season: This season in Milan gave the feeling of being out of time. First the weather, as it generally never rains in September in Milan. Then the opening with Gucci’s first presentation, which feels more like a transitional proposition than the new Demna vision. And finally the two major expected shows (Versace and Bottega Veneta) that were planned later in the week. However, the result is an eclectic season, with some unexpected propositions that give a positive [chaotic] energy, especially through audacious creativity, a lot of colors and mix and matches. Opening a new era, where “quiet luxury” seems definitely behind.
Tiziana Fausti, owner 10 Corso Como, Tiziana Fausti
Favorite collections: Prada with its garments shaped unconventionally and structures minimized.
Best presentation concept: One of the most talked-about presentations at Milan Fashion Week spring 2026 has been Gucci’s debut under Demna, showcased through the short film “The Tiger.”
Trendspotting: Bottega Veneta. For her debut, Louise Trotter highlighted the brand’s history, bringing the iconic weave to the forefront with meticulous study. Sculptural dresses and voluminous skirts stand out.
Must-have items: Prada Bag (Sacchetto) and skirt; Jil Sander shoes; Gucci trench; MM6 leather jacket.
Budgets: Flat
General comment on the season: Milan Fashion Week delivered standout collections and some unexpected highlights. There’s a real sense of momentum now, and we’re excited to see how Paris will follow up.
Kate Benson, chief merchant at Harvey Nichols
Favorite collections: There were so many impressive debuts that I am really excited by. The standouts for me were Versace by Dario Vitale and Bottega Veneta by Louise Trotter.
Best presentation concept: Etro was such a fun and joyful show led by Neapolitan band La Niña, raw and sexy. And special mention for the originality of the Sunnei concept that swapped a show format for the auction of the creative directors, in collaboration with Christies.
Trendspotting: A lean toward a much more maximalist approach, with beading and embellishment, fringes and tassels. Colors were really bold, often in unexpected combinations and lemon yellow isn’t going anywhere.
Must-have item: Color-blocked knits at Jil Sander and belted leather trousers at Versace.
Buying process: We are building a highly curated assortment for a specific target audience and there was so much newness and originality from Milan.
General comment on the season: Fashion has turned over a new page and I’m here for it.
Tiffany Hsu, chief buying and group fashion venture officer at Mytheresa
Favorite collection: “The Tiger” at Gucci truly stood out this season. Demna managed to create a narrative that was both clever and entirely unexpected, yet profoundly anchored in the house’s storied codes. It was a striking reminder that heritage and innovation are not mutually exclusive, but rather can coexist in the most compelling ways. The balance between reverence for tradition and forward-looking creativity was masterfully executed. Every look felt like a chapter in a larger story, with each detail deliberate and rich in meaning.
Best show format: Versace’s show was electric: Dario Vitale’s debut channeled the essence of Versace’s bold ’80s heritage with a fresh, contemporary twist. The nod to Miami’s iconic club scene was unmistakable and irresistibly fun, creating a sense of community and charisma that made you want to be part of that world. The styling and layering were standout, effortless yet unapologetically confident. It’s that perfect balance of sensuality and empowerment. Gucci’s cinematic premiere of “The Tiger” was undoubtedly thee standout format. By presenting the collection as a short film, Demna elevated the conversation beyond fashion into the realm of storytelling and cultural dialogue. It was immersive, emotional and disruptive in a way that still felt deeply luxurious. In an industry that often leans on spectacle, this approach proved that narrative depth can resonate just as strongly, if not more. The format itself became part of the message — bold, intelligent and refreshingly different. It set a new benchmark for how houses can showcase their vision while captivating both industry insiders and global consumers.
Top trends: This season revealed a striking constellation of trends that spoke to Milan’s renewed vitality.
Micro minis and short shorts dominated the runways, from Prada to Versace, underscoring a liberated, high-summer spirit. Power shoulders continued their evolution, now appearing in softened yet commanding forms across tailoring, knits and leather. Layering was elevated into an art form — intentional, rich and textured, as Prada and Versace demonstrated with precision. Modern sensuality was also front and center, with lingerie inspired pieces rendered more fluid, sheer and confident than before. Collectively, these trends reflect a mood of boldness, empowerment and joyful experimentation.
Must-have pieces: Prada’s polo jacket paired with the suspender skirt offered a masterclass in effortless layering — playful, sensual and directional. Versace’s cutout tank tops encapsulated the mood of confidence and modern power dressing. At Bottega Veneta, the ultra-luxury leather coats exuded sophistication and craft, while the patent clogs already carry the aura of a future must-have. Gucci’s tiger-print shearling jacket was the epitome of glamour and attitude, an instant statement piece. Each of these pieces captures the energy of the week: daring, confident and entirely attuned to what global luxury clients are seeking. They will no doubt drive conversations — and desire — for seasons to come.
Impressions of the week: The mood across the city was one of anticipation, uplift and renewed creativity. Debut collections sparked conversations at every dinner table, while established houses found compelling new ways to surprise and seduce. What struck me most was the balance — heritage houses remaining faithful to their codes while simultaneously daring to push boundaries. There was glamour, certainly, but also intelligence and wit in the collections. The week confirmed Milan’s role not only as a guardian of tradition but also as a leader in shaping the next chapter of global fashion. It was a moment that left us inspired and invigorated.
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Louise Trotter’s vision for Bottega Veneta was a creative melting pot of new ideas and a tribute to Italian craftsmanship. Prada presented a strong collection that explored the duality of men’s uniform dressing alongside ‘50s-inspired feminine silhouettes. Giorgio Armani’s collection was an emotional tribute to his legacy and the impact he has had on the global fashion stage.
Best presentation concept: Brunello Cucinelli once again brought the collection to life in its “Casa” setting. Loro Piana’s collection that was woven into the galleries of the recently reopened Palazzo Citterio offered an equally immersive presentation, balancing quiet luxury with subtle innovation.
Trendspotting: Colorblocking and saturated hues: A vibrant ’80s inspiration color palette dominated Milan, signaling a return to exuberant and eccentric dressing. Fendi, Versace and Prada led the way with striking combinations that feel fresh for spring. Dark bohemia: The bohemian mood took on a richer, more eclectic twist. Patchwork details and paisley prints were grounded in darker florals and paired with men’s tailoring, particularly at Etro and Missoni. Reimagined tailoring: Tailoring evolved with utilitarian influences, balancing sartorial precision with feminine shapes and modern fabrications. Jil Sander, Loro Piana, Ferragamo and Brunello Cucinelli showcased minimalist yet forward-thinking approaches to tailoring.
Must-have items: Fendi sequin-lined Peekaboo bag; Prada cotton piqué overshirt; Loro Piana satin mules; Jil Sander Wallabees; Tod’s whipstitch shoulder bag; Dolce & Gabbana crystal-embellished pajamas; Max Mara linen trench.
Buying process: This season requires close attention to the designers’ evolving codes. We are spending time in showrooms to uncover the nuances behind each collection, ensuring our buy reflects both the shifts in design and the evolving needs of our customer.
General comments on the season: From Meryl Streep’s cameo at Dolce & Gabbana to Giorgio Armani’s final collection, alongside three very different debuts at Jil Sander, Versace and Bottega Veneta, Milan delivered on presenting us with new ideas for the spring season. The collections reflected a sense of liberation in dressing, where bold color, fluid silhouettes and eclectic styling encouraged customers to embrace a more individual and expressive way of building their wardrobes. Milan was a celebration for artisanal design and Italian craftsmanship, reminding us that innovation and heritage can coexist to inspire both new and existing customers.
Brigitte Chatrand, chief buying and merchandising director at Net-a-porter
Favorite collections: Coincidentally, most of my favorites featured designer debuts — Gucci, Versace, Prada and Jil Sander.
Best presentation concept: Gucci — Demna’s short film was such an original concept and it has made me even more excited for Gucci’s next chapter.
Trendspotting: Archival and vintage references (my favorite) and bold, vibrant colors.
Must-have item: Definitely all the coats at Gucci. They were incredible.
General comment on the season: An incredibly exciting season marked by all the creative shifts and a refreshing wave of new ideas.
Andrea Bonecco, head of womenswear, menswear and kids at Rinascente
Favorite collections: The Dolce & Gabbana women’s collection coexisted excellently with the men’s collection presented in June. I really liked Etro’s gipsy atmosphere. The Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani collections well represented Mr. Armani’s style. Prada convinced with its fluent wardrobe. The debuts of Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander and Dario Vitale at Versace were interesting.
Best presentation concept: Demna’s [concept] for Gucci.
Trendspotting: Stripes, ruffles, fringes and asymmetric designs. Wide trousers contrasting with looks including very short shorts, paired with a jacket with big shoulders. In footwear, slingbacks and [slim] sneakers.
Must-have item: A Prada slingback shoe; a Bottega Veneta trenchcoat; Dolce & Gabbana pajamas; Etro’s blouse, printed denim and a pair of wide-leg trousers, and a Giorgio Armani evening dress.
Buying process: Our strategy is to continue to offer greater choice within the brands we manage and to give more resonance to new brands with events and pop-ups that enliven our spaces and generate interest in drawing our customers in store.
General comment on the season: A week packed with events, debut and presentations.
