Fresh from launch of her eponymous Netflix documentary, Victoria Beckham is back at work with a pre-fall collection full of tailoring and draped, folded and languid dresses for day and evening.
The collection was inspired by three stylish 20th-century women, Marchesa Casati, Doris Castlerosse and Peggy Guggenheim, who lived at different times in the same Venetian palazzo — and the feel was grand.
“If last season was about girlhood, this is about womanhood,” said Beckham during a walk-through at her west London studio. Beckham said she loved the eccentricity of all three and was also interested in “how they used themselves as a blank canvas,” for clothing filled with color, pattern and shape.
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Beckham said the studio is always exploring dresses, and this season they had lots of movement and texture. Styles included the “Victoria,” a long burgundy dress with a little V-neck, a delicate gathering at the hip and an asymmetric hemline.
A slim midi dress had a broderie anglaise detail at the shoulder, while gowns were draped, folded and ruched. Long and silky halter dresses came with abstract patterns that recalled works by Picasso or Matisse.
Tailoring was oversize, and outerwear chunky, as in a dark hooded duffel style; a cool, cropped motorcycle-style jacket with a fly front and a high collar, and an elongated peacoat with satin turn-up sleeves.
The palette, which took in burgundy, rusty brown and light blue, was inspired by two shows that Beckham visited with her family over the past year, Do Ho Suh’s “Walk the House” at Tate Modern and “Encounters: Giacometti x Huma Bhabha” at the Barbican Art Gallery.
With the documentary now behind her, Beckham said there is much more to come in the new year, including “fun” collaborations, retail and category expansion.
She said ready-to-wear is doing very well, despite this difficult moment for fashion, and she’ll also be focusing on accessories going forward. She said she’s happy about the reaction to the documentary, which was released last month.
“It has blown us all away,” said Beckham, adding that she’s looking forward to the “start of a new chapter,” for the business.
