For a fashion brand that defined the Space Age aesthetic through its groundbreaking plastic and metal dresses, it probably sounds counterintuitive to lean into craft — yet Julien Dossena’s latest collection for Rabanne is equal parts folksy and futuristic.
For his pre-fall and beachwear lines, he mixed Western-inspired touches, like cowboy boots and floral maxidresses, with the label’s signature chain-mail dresses and accessories, including versions of its classic 1969 metallic disc handbag that were spliced with suede or dripping with wooden beads.
“That’s always what we’re aiming for — a certain sophistication, texture, craft, and richness of materials — but expressed in a really relaxed way,” said Dossena. “Paco Rabanne was a Latin brand because of its founder’s [Spanish] roots, so it felt interesting to tap into a craft tradition that’s very Santa Fe.”
The designer is no stranger to a creative remix, routinely blending eras and styles for a style that telegraphs effortless sophistication.
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This season, that meant an abundance of floor-sweeping hemlines on looks including a sequin-embroidered dress paired with a caramel suede belted trenchcoat, or a fine-gauge camel sweater dress cinched with a chunky oxblood leather belt with a huge silver buckle.
“I wanted to give women something that makes them feel incredibly desirable while still having this sense of comfort and ease,” he explained.
Period references ranged from Victorian-style floral prints on prairie dresses to a ‘50s-style bowling shirt, tied at the waist and paired with a matching pastel yellow maxiskirt. Striped polo tops, some with the brand’s signature piercing-inspired ring detail, had a ‘70s flavor, as did a terrific burgundy leather trenchcoat with a shaggy shearling collar.
Almost every look came with a handbag, reflecting the continued growth of this key category for the house, which wisely leans into its expertise in metalwork, rather than trying to compete with historical leather-goods makers.
“If you buy a Paco Rabanne bag, you know you’re buying something distinctive — a unique object that’s almost part of design history. So the question becomes: how do we embrace that specificity and expand it with more confidence, especially now that we see how well it works?” Dossena said.
A pair of archival sunglasses, reimagined with thick leather frames, was the ultimate example of his hybrid approach: rooted in the past, but looking firmly toward the future.
