New York Fashion Week delivered capri jeans, colored denim and jeans with feminine flourishes. London took a more irreverent approach, with micro jean shorts and deconstructed fits. In Milan, Spring/Summer 2027 denim looked back to the early 2000s, with cutouts and other maximalist details.
In Paris, designers took an unseasonably dark and more subversive approach to denim. Dark washes, unnatural coatings and shredded jeans brought a dystopian vibe to fashion week.
Acne Studios continued to be a leader in denim finishing, adding depth and tactile interest to denim with color and high-shine coatings. Printed jeans finished with a clear, glossy coating took on a distinctly plastic-like appearance.
Matieres Fecales brought a reptilian vibe to denim with croc-embossed skinny jeans, ripped jeans and denim jackets—all with a glossy clear coating. The viral label also showed shrunken jackets and pleated skirts with exaggerated frays and cuffs, and chopped wide-leg jeans.
Alainpaul experimented with a cracked metallic silver coating and bleach splotches on jeans. Lacoste took inspiration straight from the tennis court, showing jeans with clay-like stains.
Ann Demeulemeester showed ripped and distressed jeans, yellow-tinted blue jeans and washed cargos alongside waistcoats, worn leather jackets and motorcycle boots. Balenciaga offered a variety of wide-leg jeans—some with twisted seams and heavy distressing. All had a faded gray-blue wash. Undercover combined vintage-inspired fades with rip-and-repair work.
Stella McCartney experimented with layered constructions in contrasting colors, while Ottolinger sliced jeans and twisted seams. Julie Kegels combined clean spring blue washes with long and dragging rises that nearly met the models’ knees. Miu Miu also teased its upcoming Miu Miu Upcycled collection, this time teaming up with heritage denim brand Wrangler to reimagine vintage denim with lace-up waistbands.
Torisheju chose voluminous proportions, stacked belts and oversized pocket details. Valentino brought back the pleated jean. Cecilie Bahnsen balanced its cage-like tops with wide-legs.
There were plenty of wearable jeans in Paris. L’Agence showed a wide sweep of jean fits from wide-leg and skinny flares to culottes. Marine Serre showed its signature crescent print on long shorts and short circle skirts, and The Row went back to basics with inky blue jeans and an undone white button-down shirt.
