Massimo Giorgetti gave the ladylike trend that’s sweeping Milan a thumb in the eye on behalf of Gen Z.
“There is a kind of anger from the new generation towards the last generation,” he said backstage, explaining the stolen-from-mom archetypes — luncheon suits, cocktail dresses and camel coats — that he gave a rebellious edge with big industrial zippers, searing colors, studs and glossy, oil-slick surfaces.
The designer name-checked the popular Ryan Murphy series “Feud: Capote vs. The Swans,” anointing author Truman Capote “like a ghost writer of the collection.”
He’s no doubt also aware of the “old money” fashion esthetic sweeping TikTok, which is surely why he purposely left the sleeve label intact on his versions of waist-cinched Bar jackets in speckled tweeds, and why silk shift dresses depicted Belgian artist Jan De Vliegher’s lush oil paintings of ornate dinner plates and fancy glassware. (The best ironic accessory for the latter look would be an ungainly Stanley water tumbler.)
There were furry-fronted white jeans, an idea that seemed lifted from Phoebe Philo’s comeback collection; fancy brocade coats; polka dot silks, and others printed with actual swans.
Worn without an ungainly hydration accessory — and his chunky Chukka boots and Mary Janes — these clothes risk looking very mumsy, but that’s also kind of the point. “Two generations put together,” said Giorgetti, who also cast veteran models Tasha Tilberg and Guinevere van Seenus, who has been swanning around on numerous Milan runways.
