The nostalgia for Western wear has been reignited in fashion, in part due to Beyoncé and her latest country music crossover album, “Cowboy Carter.” However, elements from cowboy culture including fringe details, cowboy boots and hats, and Western style embroidery have permeated high fashion and street style for decades.
While many European designers like Gianni Versace, whose 1990 couture collection sparked the trend’s pop culture status, have sought inspiration in the American West, it is Ralph Lauren who has used its motifs most extensively throughout his career, spanning from the 1970s to the present day. “I think the spirit of Western style has a rugged elegance and authenticity that people want to relate to,” he once said. “There’s both a sensibility and honesty to the clothing that gives it an enduring appeal.” Lauren’s commitment to the theme extends into his personal life, since he’s famous for escaping the world of high fashion at his very own Double RL ranch in Colorado.
Other American designers who have been influenced by cowboy attire include Texan-born Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs during his tenure as creative director at Perry Ellis. Meanwhile, the convergence of European aesthetics with western Americana was felt when Belgian designer Raf Simons took the reins of Calvin Klein, where he adopted the classic snap-front pocket shirt and boot-cut pants as a pillar for his reimagining of the brand. In another memorable fashion history moment, Karl Lagerfeld brought Parisian glamour to a rustic barn in Dallas for Chanel’s métiers d’art show in 2014 to pay homage to the city that welcomed back Coco Chanel after World War II and helped revitalize her career.
Here, a look at a selection of designer runway collections including Alessandro Michele’s Gucci spring 2021 show and Pharrell’s fall 2024 menswear collection for Louis Vuitton, inspired by the Western wear trend.
