Aside from the presence of Dita Von Reese, Alexis Mabille’s couture showing was a world away from last season’s extravaganza at the Lido.
Instead, he worked with friends and clients, and with photographer Marcel Nestler, to create a series of portraits for his look book. He showed his designs with a one-on-one presentation, highlighting their intricate details and hand techniques. Many of the looks were created with their wearer in mind.
Von Teese wore a floor-trailing black crêpe dress with a crescent shaped bustier reminiscent of a vampire’s collar and a purple satin waistband. He tempted photographer Ellen von Unwerth, who started out as a model, back in front of the camera to sport a black and white tailored look in crêpe.
Fredrik Robertsson and Jordan Roth also lent their presence, and Mabille pointed out that designing for men was like a return to his roots in the brand’s 20th anniversary year. He counts many men among his bespoke clientele, and early men’s designs are the origin for his signature bow-tie motif, which featured here as a voluminous knot atop the bodices of several gowns.
You May Also Like
Mabille played with transparency and lingerie details, with layers of crinoline showing through giant skirts of tulle and lace worked in a variety of ways. He quilted satin into waves with corsetry boning to create giant belts, collars and a sleeveless coat in pale blue, worn by Tina Leung. A nylon fabric traditionally used as an underlayer was turned into a full skirt and paired with an openwork organza top. Roth modeled a mesh sweatshirt overlaid with lace and hair details and a layered skirt in shades of white and ivory in one look.
Mabille’s version of a fur stole, meanwhile, was crafted from hundreds of hand-frayed organza ruffles in a graduation of black to white, modeled by dancer Marie-Agnès Gillot over a translucent organza dress.
Fredrik Robertsson had already purchased the washed silk coat with ostrich plume hem that he wore, and was frustrated to have to leave it behind in the showroom for the presentation, Mabille said.
