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Andrea Adamo has joined the growing legion of Milanese designers looking to display female power in their spring collections, taking the legendary, kohl-eyed Italian singer Mina as his muse.

The designer said he was inspired by Mina’s gutsy feminism and efforts to juggle work and family as she built her career in the ’60s and ’70s before retiring unexpectedly.

To that end he fused masculine and feminine silhouettes, and fabrics such as leather and cotton drill with his signature slinky knits.

New this season were sheer ribbed knits inspired by men’s underwear, which Adamo worked into whisper thin bodysuits, catsuits and draped leggings. A rippling, pleated 3D knit also made its debut in the form of a slinky black dress and curvy skirt that Adamo teamed with a cropped leather jacket.

Leather played a starring role. In addition to the tailored jackets, the designer sent out soft cargo pants and slim black dresses adorned with leather ribbons, or sequin details.

The finale was one of the best of the week. Models walked behind a backlit curtain, and their movement created dramatic, rippling shadows. They lined up, then the curtain dropped, and the audience had one final glimpse of the collection. It was a theatrical ending fit for a diva.

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