LONDON — The cold, gray English weather did not prevent hundreds of customers from crowding outside Jacquemus’ first London store at 33 New Bond Street just to catch a glimpse of founder Simon Porte Jacquemus cutting the yellow ribbon.
The first customer in line arrived at 5 a.m. on Friday, and within minutes of the store opening a few hours later, the crowds were already trying on caps featuring a Jacaquemus tea packet; donning hoodies in the hidden changing rooms, and taking sips of espresso from tiny white ceramic cups.
“Beginning with Dover Street Market, Browns and Selfridges, we’ve always been so loved by Britain, so it was an easy and smooth destination,” said the designer, adding that Europe is the brand’s strongest market.
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“Menswear has always been very strong in the U.K. and now it’s equal to womenswear in terms of sales. Menswear at Selfridges was always on fire for us, so I’m happy we have a dedicated floor” in his new store, Jacquemus said.
The store has been leased from the art gallery Richard Green, and spans four floors. One is the menswear floor, while another has a VIP salon, with a private elevator and entrance, for top clients and celebrities.
The gallery originally acquired the freehold of the property in 1995 and hired George Saumarez Smith of Adam Architecture to redo the neoclassical facade, complete with a sculpted relief by Alexander Stoddart depicting the last voyage, and death, of Odysseus.
“It’s a one-of-a-kind building, and I thought it was a good address for Jacquemus,” said the designer, whose store faces Fendi and Chloé, and counts Sotheby’s and Pomellato as neighbors.
Jacquemus honored the building’s history and design credibility by enlisting the help of Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas’ OMA agency to do the interiors.
He chose the furnishings and books by American photographer Bruce Davidson, artist Samantha McEwen and painter Robert Motherwell.
Jacquemus even brought his own art collection to the store. There are paintings and sculptures by Wolfgang Tillmans, George Braque, Henri Fantin-Latour and Waldemar Grzimek.
The store has a lightness and ease, perhaps because of the ivory and butter yellow colors; the pieces of fruit that have been carefully positioned with the handbags, and the bed installed in the window display.
Jacquemus said the sofas and artworks in the store are a reflection of his home. “I have the same lamps here in my office, and I have a large version of the tables at home. Everyone has said to me, ‘Simon, it’s your new home.’ I wish because this so far is much more comfortable,” he said.
Each floor has bouquets of lavender and Trudon candles burning. “It was important to bring the Mediterranean and the solar vibes of Provence [to London] because I know the British love Provence,” Jacquemus said.
The designer cited a wish to stage a show in the British wilds. “I love the countryside,” he added.
The brand recently expanded with boutiques in Saint-Tropez, Courchevel, Dubai and New York, and it’s currently in the process of looking for additional funds for its next phase of store openings in 2025 and 2026.
A spokeswoman told WWD in October that the brand posted revenues of 270 million euros in 2023.
Jacquemus has been doing double duty as creative director and chief executive officer since the departure last December of Bastien Daguzan, but the search for a new CEO is still ongoing.
“I’m looking for someone entrepreneurial that’s not scared to have new ideas and that leads by creativity in this position. This business needs to be led by creative business [people]. We need to think new and apply a new recipe for a brand like Jacquemus,” said the designer as he got ready to greet customers outside the store and pose for selfies with them.
