Atlein’s recent Khy collaboration might have capitalized on Kylie Jenner’s traditional, mainstream sexual appeal. For its own spring 2025 collection, however, Antonin Tron picked a subject that’s more underground: London’s radical lesbian movements during Thatcher-era London, as captured in the 2021 documentary “Rebel Dykes” by Siân A. Williams and Harri Shanahan, as well as American artist Del LaGrace Volcano’s photography book “Love Bites.”
“They created incredible spaces of freedom, responding to the violent homophobic and misogynistic law at the time. They are very strong feminists,” said Tron, who has grown a lot from wanting to dress goddesses of the ocean two years ago.
With new vocabulary added to the brand, the designer dabbled with fine, made-in-Italy tailoring. The blazers came with ruched details on the back, echoing the dress range’s most recognized design. He also offered bombers, parkas, bodysuits, and cargo pants done in a punk-influenced elegant way.
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Most of the dresses were sheer and body-hugging as usual — some with hand-placed Swarovski crystals for extra glitz — but he also offered more loose-fitted and daytime-appropriate styles in Japanese cotton and viscose jersey. The Christian Louboutin combat boots, meanwhile, helped with overall storytelling on the runway.
Tron said he doesn’t want Atlein to be typecast as a sexy dress-only brand, even if that’s the bread and butter of the business for now. “There was a part of the brand that was silent, but I think Atlein will eventually become a house. We’re just taking our time,” he added.
