The main takeaway of David Koma’s latest collection for Blumarine — and at this point, after a year as creative director, of his vision for the brand — is that his woman can’t go unnoticed.
For fall 2026, the designer turned up the drama more than ever, sending down the runway his interpretation of what makes a diva today. Judging by this show, it’s an unapologetic attitude and plenty of bare skin, as the lineup was not for the faint of heart with its short hems and transparencies demanding an extra dose of confidence.
Seeing glamour as an empowering force, Koma bet big on puffy volumes, lamé surfaces, sequined embroideries and flashy hardware, taking a decisively eveningwear turn with looks that mainly winked to after-dusk occasions and the red carpet.
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Still, he tried to balance strict structure and softness, alternating his penchant for sharp lines and sculptural shapes with the more gentle femininity and romanticism rooted in the brand.
What was quintessentially Blumarine was the house’s main insignia, the rose, which Koma instilled into the lineup in different ways: as a print splashed on taffeta beetle-back capes and balloon-shaped minidresses and skirts; as colorful embroidery wrapping around the sleeves of a cocooning vinyl bomber jacket or the legs of overdyed denim pants; as the cutout motif of a red crochet mini frock or the sensual one of Chantilly lace separates; as pleated appliqués popping up on gold georgette lamé minidresses and tops, or as the contrasting pattern in a gold chainmail dress.
Roses also appeared in the baroque cameo buttons punctuating skirt suits or forming jewelry and metal chains caging bras and jeans, joined by other symbols such as butterflies and lions. The latter were a nod to Venice, whose opulent decadence also served as inspiration for Koma’s pre-collection presented earlier this year.
Continuing to build on the Venetian theme, the designer included theatrical pieces such as black-and-white harlequin diamond furry stoles and coats, crinoline-like skirts, and a black goat hair corset in the shape of the Blumarine butterfly. These numbers were surely impactful on the runway but unlikely to find space in the racks of Blumarine’s new store in Milan, which was to be unveiled with an event following the show.
