Who said white can’t be worn after Labor Day? Not Brunello Cucinelli, who showed for fall a tempting selection of pantsuits, corduroy coats and ribbed turtlenecks in the color. In fact, the palette in general was distinctive, surprising with its extensive range of beige and gray shades with mélange tones enriching an iris-purple hue, for example.
The research into colors was mirrored by Cucinelli’s experimentation with new blends of fabrics and textures, as chevron and diagonal motifs added depth to the designs — also seen on soft suede or shearling with mélange effects.
His belief is that men now want to wear “elegant and refined clothes that will last in time, but what is key is how they combine the garments, the shapes and colors.”
This vision was translated into his collection for fall, styled at his Milan showroom in an unmistakably and quintessentially Cucinelli way. That said, the collection was dubbed “A free soul call,” as the goal is to allow men the freedom to diversify the looks depending on the occasion and the mood — and there was plenty to choose from.
The lineup had an ‘80s vibe, yet updated with a light and comfortable, more modern, fit, as seen in the double breasted pinstriped suits. Dad cardigans with geometric motifs were worn over shirts and ties and coats were longer, in sync with the trend seen in Milan.
A delicate paisley pattern embellished shirts, and corduroy pantsuits contributed to the easy and relaxed mood. While the shoulders were more pronounced and the coats a bit more structured than in the past, with a retro feel, their weight remained light and cocooning.
New metal buttons jazzed up the traditional peacoat — a menswear icon.
Corduroy suits with Prince of Wales or paisley motifs were must-haves for the evening.
