MILAN — Leave it to Miuccia Prada to lead the way when it comes to setting trends.
Either alone at the helm of Miu Miu or in tandem with Raf Simons at Prada, the designer offered some of the buzziest and most sought-after accessories for spring 2025, from belted bags to sporty takes on flip-flops, from maxi sunglasses to legwarmers and toeless socks that no one even imagined they’d add to a shopping wishlist.
Most importantly, she offered range. In Milan, Prada and Simons displayed some of the brand’s greatest bag and shoe hits over the years, slightly reworked for spring — and more – which buyers said matched consumers’ current mood.
“Customers continue to be very intentional in their purchases, focusing on items with obvious end-uses and longevity. However, we’re certainly seeing a return to purchases that also evoke emotion, versus being purely functional,” said Ryan Kleman, accessories director at Moda Operandi.
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“Customers want more diversity, less than an item product. They want to complete their look and feel more unique than before, to express their singularity,” echoed Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear at Printemps.
A Snapshot From the Shows
As result, there was a proliferation of different designs in bags and footwear across the runways of New York, London, Milan and Paris, as well as the rise of new categories that could turn out to be strategic both style- and sales-wise for consumers and companies, respectively.
Roomy handbags for daily use still ruled the season, both offered in soft textures like supple leather and suede or coming in graphic lines and asymmetric shapes. Ditto for east-west styles, which are still popular and offer a sleek counterpoint to more unpredictable designs, ranging from the seashell-shaped and crochet bags at Chloé to the cat minaudière Alessandro Michele included in his runway debut at Valentino and Rabanne’s one-of-a-kind 1969 Nano bag in 18-karat gold.
Shoes tapped into myriad trends, from flats and all things balletcore to the elevation of flip-flops and thong sandals, which were reinterpreted with a sporty touch at Miu Miu and Casablanca; with arty vibes at McQueen and Paula Canovas Del Vas; with pure lines and bold colors at Missoni and Carven or keeping a ‘90s minimalist appeal at the likes of Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Nehera.
Sneakers fans could also rejoice. After few seasons of more dressed-up footwear options such as mary janes and kitten heels taking the spotlight, sneakers were back in the game, especially styles with extra-flat soles and high-top versions that nodded to boxing shoes, as seen at the likes of Dior, Loewe, Stella McCartney, Tod’s and Ann Demeulemeester.
On the other side of the shoe spectrum, pumps made an appearance, led by the new Miss Z style Christian Louboutin presented with a spectacular show during Paris Fashion Week. As a counterpoint, brands such as Vivienne Westwood and Victoria Beckham looked at the men’s shoe rack to revisit Oxford styles that could ground their ready-to-wear collections and enable them to play with the feminine and masculine duality.
“We are moving slowly from a more sexy woman to a wise-intellectual girl: it’s a new sensuality,” said Pupato, who believes flats and men’s shoes are here to stay. Highlights of this trend included Jonathan Anderson’s take on men’s dress shoes for Loewe, where the designer stretched the silhouette to exaggerated length for an almost cartoon-like effect.
It was part of a more eccentric wave, which mirrored designers’ quest for fun, joy and positivity as a reaction to the geopolitical uncertainties and disheartening news. This approach was best exemplified by the Bottega Veneta show that balanced craftsmanship with playfulness in glass flowers blooming from pointed mules or shoes nodding to the shape of bunny’s ears.
“We are expanding beyond the quiet luxury trend that dominated last year and embracing accessories that have more detail, embellishment and color,” said Marissa Galante Frank, accessories and beauty fashion director at Bloomingdale’s.
“Last year we were in a quiet luxury area: less is more… now we are looking for more fun,” echoed Pascale Leboutet, buying and merchandising director for accessories at Galeries Lafayette. “Accessorization is at its peak, with all kinds of accessories to complete a look and stand out from the crowd: hair accessories, belts, jewelry, mini bags and [charms] attached to the bag.”
Turbans at Chloé and Valentino, low-waist metal belts at Miu Miu, bold jewelry at Gucci and Saint Laurent and statement sunglasses at Prada and Courrèges all added to the new search for more personalization.
“This year, there is a pronounced appetite for innovation, coupled with a notable shift away from carryover styles,” said Richard Johnson, chief commercial and sustainability officer at Mytheresa, also noticing that the “category of belts has seen considerable strength compared to last year.”
New Names to Watch
As they try to diversify and enrich their assortments, international retailers continued to scout emerging accessories brands that could resonate with consumers’ demands for newness.
Kleman cited the Déhanche leather goods brand for its fashion-forward belts and the Juju Vera label for its modern jewelry rooted in ancient inspiration. In addition, he said Lié Studio, a Copenhagen-based brand, “started with jewelry and expanded into leather goods — they’re quickly proving to have the Midas touch across both categories.”
Johnson pointed to the minimal appeal and appealing price point of Aesther Ekme; Leboutet mentioned 2024 ANDAM Award winner Maeden, while Pupato had on her list Canadian label Lucasheva, as well as South Korean brands Aarahee and Osoi for footwear and bags, respectively.
While at Bloomingdale’s all eyes are on Vibi Venezia’s modern take on the traditional Venetian slippers furlane, Selfridges’ director of accessories Sara Wong praised Swedish shoe brand Anny Nord for its clean design and Esha Soni’s handbags for their blend of art and craftsmanship.
As for LuisaViaRoma’s head of womenswear Krizia Bianchi Fasani, she mentioned Sordo’s bold jewelry line and Christen, the solo project of Nina Christen, who previously designed standout shoes for The Row and Bottega Veneta.
Here, buyers list their top choices of the season:
Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks
Favorite accessories: The artisanal handcraft on the bags and shoes at Bottega Veneta was so luxe: novelty hand-woven flowers, the 1000x Mille tote, the leather woven totes and the raffia clutches are effortless and chic. The Prada show featured a different shoe with every look: there was so much variety from the lady pump, the loafer and the iconic brogue espadrille, [and] the east-west top-handle lady bag was also a highlight. We loved the bohemian spirit at Chloé, and the accessories played into the boho vibe, with the jelly sandal, the crochet bracelet bag, the novelty shell bags and the high-top sneakers, perfect for summer. Loewe’s Flow high-top sneakers paired back to the floral hoop dresses are must-haves, along with the two-tone boat shoe and loafer. Alaïa’s clear, barely there sandal and the oversized shoulder bag are the perfect complement to the jersey bandeau tops and tiered skirts inspired by the Guggenheim.
Top trends: Spring is a really strong season for handbags and shoes. In shoes, the elevated thong, the jelly sandal, the loafer, the loafer mule, the kitten heel and the high-top sneaker are trending. In handbags, there is a softer hand to the leathers, including the east-west bag, the soft shoulder tote, the bucket bag, the satchel, the fringe bag and novelty evening bags in unique shapes. Seashells at Chloé, cats at Valentino, clutches and raffia all continue to trend.
Must-have items: Prada had a stellar lineup, including the espadrille brogues and bucket bag; the Alaïa clear PVC sandal and soft shoulder bag; Khaite’s east-west top-handle bags; The Row’s ballerina flats; Loewe’s and Chloé’s high-top sneakers; Chloé’s jelly sandal and crochet bracelet bag; Bottega Veneta’s mules and totes.
Marissa Galante Frank, accessories and beauty fashion director at Bloomingdale’s
Favorite accessories: The Chloé jelly sandals perfectly captured the youthful spirit of the spring 2025 runways. They looked so fresh styled back to Chemena Kamali’s feminine and airy bohemian looks, marrying the two major themes of the season.
Prada’s belted tote was updated with studs giving it a new attitude while keeping its classic shape. It is the ideal 24-hour bag that allows you to look polished without sacrificing your personal style. The colorful east-west shoulder bags at Prada were retro inspired in all of the right places. The leopard printed version is sure to be a bestseller.
The gold bamboo jewelry at Gucci was chic and statement making.
I loved Jimmy Choo’s oversize palette sequin sandals and matching mini bucket bag. By using neutral colors Sandra Choi is making these very embellished pieces very wearable and easy for the customer to style back into their wardrobe.
Top trends: Tinted sunglasses; headscarves; soft-hued color palette; east-west bags; summer suede, and collar necklaces.
Must-have items: The belt will be one of the must-have accessories of the spring 2025 season. Miu Miu solidified what we were seeing all of fashion month by sending looks down the runway with layered belts — mixing metal and leather options.
Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus
Favorite accessories: The jelly shoes and crochet bags at Chloé are the perfect additions to the brand’s cool and carefree aesthetic. We loved the updates to iconic Prada shoe styles like the rubber-dipped mary jane and platformed brogue; their new mint satin pump with silver cap toe was also divine. Bottega Veneta continues to raise the bar in what’s possible with leather, the couture-like bags in this collection approached art. The debut of the new Miss Z pump at Christian Louboutin’s presentation was one for the books! We loved the French artistic swimming team and performance artistically directed by David LaChapelle; that was a true expression of creativity. The playful raffia bags, hats and shoes also stood out at Roger Vivier’s presentation.
Top trends: Bag charms added whimsy and personality at Chloé, Versace and Loewe. Thong sandals, both flat and heeled, feel sleek and cool again. A folded crescent, almost dumpling-shaped bag popped up in every city, as well as the east-west silhouette continuing strong. And, if Miuccia Prada continues to lead the way with shoe trends, it looks like the peep toe will be back in a big way, as seen also at Miu Miu and Tory Burch. Bordeaux wine has emerged as a must-have color in footwear this season, complemented by rich tonal browns and subtle touches of olive green. Cozy shearling is also trending, especially in fur-lined sandals, sneakers and booties, adding both style and comfort to the mix.
Must-have items: The Fendi collaboration boot with Red Wing; the JW Anderson flat moto boot styled with every single look; the new Loewe Puzzle soft bag, and the Miu Miu clog.
Ryan Kleman, accessories director at Moda Operandi
Favorite accessories: The Row’s rubber slide: after their viral jelly flat, this style will certainly be another sell-out hit. Alaïa’s new shoulder bag, Le Click: this semi-structured frame bag has the iconic attitude of the maison combined with all the functionality you could ever need. Balenciaga’s new top-handle, the Nano: adding to their bestselling family of irreverent handbags, this new shape is just what the doctor ordered. Coperni’s Disney Mickey Mouse shoe and Swipe bag: these will be the ultimate collectibles for Disney adults and fashion-followers alike. Miu Miu’s low-profile sneaker: when it comes to sneakers, all eyes are always on Miuccia Prada, these will surely keep everyone’s focus. The Gabriela Hearst cowboy boot: this is the “final boss” of western boots. Rabanne’s solid gold rendition of their 1969 bag: in this instance, all that glitters is, in fact, gold. The oversize shield sunnies at Courrèges: these are a welcome antidote to the ubiquitous trend of small frames. Chloe’s mini bracelet bag: approximately 25 percent smaller than the last iteration, the proportions have officially been perfected to hold just enough. Khaite’s Audrey clutch: the premium suede, subtle use of hardware and practical size make this bag a triple threat. Christian Louboutin’s Miss Z pump: the most appealing pump introduced in many seasons, inclusive of a new everlasting, scratch-proof red sole. Bottega Veneta’s high-craft clutches and 3D flower mules: iconic items of the house get even better with novel techniques and materializations.
Top trends: Handheld clutches — the bigger the better. Collectible accessories that double as art, like JW Anderson’s canary clutch, Valentino’s cat minaudière, Coperni’s Mickey Mouse shoes. A return to pumps: Christian Louboutin, Prada and Alaïa are all pointing us towards closed-toe stilettos. Woven knit bags; many market-leading brands are proposing coated fabrics and knit options. Cuffs over sleeves: wearing statement bracelets over clothes takes this trend to the next level. Semi-precious stones: sculptural jewelry gets updated with tiger’s eye, turquoise, malachite and more. Oversized eyewear: shields, optical and square frames all expanded — literally. Thong sandals are here to stay, especially as a mid-heel. Below the belt: metal and leather belts alike moved down from the true waist — the new look is very low slung. Low-profile sneakers: the most important sneakers are slim, almost ballet-like in attitude. Notably, some are coming up into high-top variations.
Josie Gardner, head of buying for shoes, accessories & childrenswear at Harrods
Top trends: When it comes to accessories, lunchbox bags are making a comeback, along with stylish backpacks. Statement jewelry was also very prominent this season, as well as lace-up kitten heels and skinny wedge shoes, an overall very versatile but clear direction for this season’s trends.
Must-have items: The cat clutch at Valentino is a standout item for me as well as the shell bag at Chloé, both of which make great statement pieces. For a playful yet practical choice, the bunny pink backpack at Bottega or the classic backpack at Miu Miu were also key items.
Sara Wong, director of accessories at Selfridges
Favorite accessories: I loved seeing all the belts on the runway from Bottega Veneta to Prada, Gabriela Hearst and even at Miu Miu, styled as an arm band. I also loved the colorful, toeless leg warmers and socks from Miu Miu. It’s such a fun way to inject color and interest to sandals or pumps while being functional. At the presentation, [there were a] lot of sheer fabric accessories, from slides and pumps to handbags and skirts: I loved the contrast of the soft, delicate fabric paired with bold, statement jewelry. Bag charms were still very prominent to add character to any handbags, [with my favorites being] from Loewe, Balenciaga and Chloé.
Top trends: Sheer fabrics from shoes and bags from the likes of Dries Van Noten, Neous, and Savette to pieces from Simone Rocha, Victoria Beckham, Chloé and Loewe. Bold jewelry, like necklaces, earrings and rings [like] the ones from Bottega Veneta and Dries Van Noten. Pastel colors across accessories and still seeing that pop of red, particularly in footwear.
Must-have items: A sheer handbag and/or footwear juxtaposed with statement jewelry.
Pascale Leboutet, buying and merchandising director for accessories at Galeries Lafayette
Favorite accessories: The long pearl necklace from Saint Laurent to dress up any outfit and the Puzzle soft bag for greater comfort and modernity.
Top trends: Suede, brownish colors, belt bag, double bags (a mini version attached to the regular size) and bags [doubling as] jewelry.
Must-have items: The Prada belt bag with eyelets from the runway; shoes from Courrèges; aviator sunglasses from Saint Laurent.
Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear at Printemps
Favorite accessories: Any lady bag worn as pouches, because the attitude is more important than the bag itself. My favorites were from Ferragamo, Miu Miu, Prada, Victoria Beckham.
A pair of Richelieu [derby shoes] from Loewe or with wedges from Prada to wear with a baby-doll dress, because it’s the right conjunction of masculine and feminine. Bangles bracelet from Saint Laurent or Isabel Marant. Colored tight: purple from Prada, lace red or white from Valentino. Loafers by Loewe or Miu Miu, because they are still in the game. From presentations: the Gianvito Rossi [gladiator] sandals; the Jimmy Choo corset pumps: Brunello Cucinelli’s loafers; Rescha’s head mesh with crystals embroidery; Valextra’s new supple oversize bag.
Top trends: Balletcore is still very present, especially in Milan and London. Intellectual girl is rising more and more, with eyeglasses becoming a real fashion accessory. Masculinity versus baby dolls, unveiling two sides of the woman, empowering her to play with both.
Must-have items: The new soft Puzzle bag from Loewe and the tiny Holy bag from Courrèges, because they are nice example of iconic and desirable pieces. Laced-up ballet shoes from Ferragamo, to wear with a wrap-over top. Leather flip-flops from Miu Miu or transparent ones from Christopher Esber, as well as pool shoes from The Row to wear with skirts or dresses. Turban hat from Chloé or Valentino. A tie from Saint Laurent, because it’s a new essential.
Giuseppe D’Amato, buying and merchandising director at Rinascente
Favorite accessories: All the medium- or large-sized bags have been well developed by the brands. The special pieces seen at Chloé, Fendi, Bottega Veneta, Loewe and Valentino were very interesting and appealing for customers.
Top trends: Big or medium bags, functional and for daily use, and the more precious and embellished ones.
Must-have items: All accessories from Prada, Miu Miu and Bottega Veneta. Fendi’s new Baguette bag, soft and bigger sized. The mini shell bag from Chloé and the bags from the Valentino show. Gucci’s Horsebit boots.
Richard Johnson, chief commercial and sustainability officer at Mytheresa
Favorite accessories: We were particularly impressed by the Chloé jewelry and shoes, which exude freshness and excitement. The new Alaïa Click Bag shows great promise as a potential bestseller, while the Alaïa heeled thong sandals, showcased in an array of colors, stand out as the quintessential piece in the thong trend that dominated the season. The Miu Miu show was a highlight, presenting stunning accessories, including bold belts, bags, and the must-have legwarmer socks. Saint Laurent also captivated with its remarkable sunglasses and striking earrings, which are sure to resonate with our customers.
Aquazzura delivered a compelling collection of shoes and bags, featuring playful and emotive designs that are sure to connect with our clientele. The raffia theme at the Roger Vivier presentation was particularly noteworthy, perfectly suited for the upcoming resort delivery, a key category for us. Additionally, Magda Butrym showcased exquisite headscarves and distinctive statement earrings that captured our admiration.
Top trends: Brown suedes are prevalent across bag collections, while the boho trend is seamlessly translating into all accessory categories. The top-handle silhouette remains dominant, often embellished with charms. Heeled thong sandals are ubiquitous, and mesh continues to be a favored material. Raffia has embraced vibrant colors, and bold statement belts are making a significant return.
Must-have items: The Miu Miu slides, layered with open-toe socks, along with the exquisite jewelry from Chloé.
Krizia Bianchi Fasani, head of womenswear at LuisaViaRoma
Favorite accessories: The Attico’s Passeggiata bag, the perfect fashion-forward interpretation of the carryall bag for the woman who likes to take that step further in terms of shape and fabrication without compromising functionality. It’s definitely eye-catching, doesn’t go unnoticed and allows you to bring with you not only your essentials but also your laptop, tablet or any other bulkier belonging.
The Dries Van Noten shoes: from precious beading, exotic prints and mesh uppers, the sculpted glass-like heel is the only item you need to own to stand out in a crowd.
Top trends: The belted bag: either maxi or mini, tote or bucket, with buckles and belts with their simplicity are the newest detail that make this bag the latest irresistible must-have.
The thong sandal: comfortable and chic, from The Row to Toteme, these will go well with any outfit, regardless of the occasion.
Must-have items: The new flip-flops and next “It” bag from The Row’s show.
