Daniele Calcaterra is one of those designers who remains off the buzz radar of the Milan scene, but his fashions can offer statement moments in their own, personal way.
Always leaning on understated elegance and a sense of refinement, for fall 2024 Calcaterra displayed his love of the ‘80s with larger-than-life shoulders and wide-leg pants, as well as his passion for tactility by alternating different and rich textures in the lineup.
The result was mixed. On one hand there were great capes and blazer jackets, which even in their exaggerated proportions radiated a sophisticated aura with their graphic lines heightened by softer shirts with scarf collars charmingly draped around the neck.
On the other, some looks seemed dated and were harder to imagine on the streets today, including tops with a raised, straight neckline that cut the female figure in an unflattering way.
Still, what stood out was the polished color palette of burnt red, burgundy, chocolate and ash gray tones, as well as his research into fabrics, which ranged from fine and Shetland wools to silk to alpaca and a couple of upcycled furs that popped up in the lineup. Their eccentric vibe was second only to giant floral appliqués sprouting here and there on certain looks.
