Chen Peng added tailoring elements to his fall 2024 lineup, which, similar to his Paris debut last March, referenced iconic Parisian couture shapes from the likes of Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and Jean Paul Gaultier while rewiring everything using the techniques utilized to construct a down jacket, the hero product of Chen’s label.
Cue the jacket variations with dramatic shoulders and floral embroideries, decadent coats densely dotted with ostrich feathers, and sweeping gowns with sparky veils embellished with Swarovski crystals.
The use of bespoke techniques could be observed on practical blazers, padded with down feathers around the sleeves and flaps, quite tame compared to the rest of the high-drama lineup.
Chen said the implementation of tailoring skills not only serves as a nod to the brand’s menswear roots but was also a deeply personal tribute to his father, who passed away in 2023.
“I made a suit for him when I was a fashion student in London. After he passed away, my mother gave it to me. To me, 2023 was a year with many glorious moments but also a very dark time. That’s why I chose red and black to express the sense of intertwined emotions where love, hope, danger, mourning and silence were all present in the same place,” said Chen.
