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Chet Lo’s collections have been deeply personal, exploring his queer and Asian identities.

Spring 2025 is more personal than ever, as it celebrates the bond between him and his mother, Mai-Wah Cheung, who has had an illustrious career spanning computer sciences, digital media, art and education.

The designer dug through her business-savvy wardrobe and looked at old pictures to create a collection that struck a balance between unbridled young energy and a newfound layer of maturity.

“I took this pattern out and literally used them for the runway,” Lo said after the show. “It was also about vulnerability and strength, realizing what you want to do in life, instead of just trying to take over the world. That ephemeral, lighter tone is the way that I wanted to go for.”

Paring back the theatrics, Lo offered more realistic iterations of his signature spiky knits, and pieces made from pleated organza printed with checks, which resulted in a similar visual effect as that of the knits. Other highlights included tailored trousers and dresses dotted with miniature glass fruits. Lo said that’s a tribute to his mother’s fruit paintings.

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Cheung said her favorite look was a hooded evening gown, which according to Lo, was inspired by a picture of her wearing a scarf.