In his mission to reiterate Diesel’s ownership of all things denim, Glenn Martens is still managing to show range. His expansive pre-fall 2025 range came with look-book images reminiscent of album covers. It well seres commercial purposes demanded by a pre-collection, the brand’s democratic ethos and Martens’ own goal of finding new ways of having fun with Diesel codes.
A focus on fluid silhouettes and technical wear were the fresh additions to the lexicon he has developed for the label, hinged on pillars such as utility, Pop aesthetics, bold prints, distressed finishes and trompe-l’œil effects.
Martens was particularly keen of the sportier items “because it’s been years that I’m trying to do technical wear and I finally managed,” he said in a preview. He pointed out how pieces including windbreakers, zippered jackets and short shorts formerly crafted from denim now mimic its washed appearance via nylon with a denim fiber. Other items building on the theme ranged from jersey polos to ‘90s-tinged velvet tracksuits.
Light, fluid tailoring and the elongated silhouettes of denim-looking shirtdresses, skirts and pants were also imbued with a relaxed attitude. Ditto the unfussy knits in faded hues and cool cardigans glazed to mimic chain mail.
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Trickling down a concept introduced at Diesel’s latest runway show, Martens reworked the knotted frocks echoing the brand’s vintage scarves in monochrome separates or eye-catching patchworks of both delicate and psychedelic patterns splashed over cropped tops and miniskirts. Yet these couldn’t compete with the fun cameos of kitty cats, little ducklings and menacing tarantulas printed all over padded jackets, dresses and even the brand’s Play bag: They expressed Diesel’s youthful and irreverent spirit even without an iota of indigo in sight.
