Duran Lantink has his eyes on the prize.
Not the LVMH Prize, mind, since he scooped the Karl Lagerfeld Special Jury Prize weeks ago. What’s top of mind for the Dutch designer is refining the DNA of his label.
And it’s not about questioning the human form, although that’s what the humps and bumps seen in his previous seasons seemed to hint at.
“It’s not really about changing the body, it’s about changing the shape of iconic clothing pieces,” Lantink said backstage. “For me, it’s more interesting to figure out what you can do with clothes, and then how that, in the end, reacts on a body.”
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For spring, the Dutch designer looked to American multimedia sculptor Kris Ruhs and conversations with the artist and his partner, Italian retail legend Carla Sozzani, whose personal collection of jewelry appeared in the show.
Meanwhile, the garment Lantink reached for this season was the T-shirt, stretched into a whole wardrobe as a dress, trousers, a bomber jacket and even a dramatic parka. One look even featured a screen embedded in the front that gave the illusion of a hole in the model’s torso — a pinhole camera filmed behind her.
It made for a lineup that was as plentiful as ever — and included Naomi Campbell — but felt cohesive. Novelties therefore stood out more and included denim shorts that appeared nearly standard from the front but jutted out a good foot ahead of the body, and a bag design that was more often than not perched on the head.
