LONDON — Dutch designer Duran Lantink, Raul Lopez of New York label Luar, Michael Stewart of London-based Standing Ground and Louis Gabriel Nouchi from Paris are among the eight emerging brands that have been named finalists of the 2025 International Woolmark Prize.
The other candidates are Luca Lin of Act No.1; Rachel Scott of Diotima; Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre of Ester Manas, and Belgian designer Meryll Rogge. The winner will take home a cash prize of 300,000 Australian dollars, or around $195,000, 50 percent more than in previous years.
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All the finalists will have the opportunity to be stocked at leading global retailers via the International Woolmark Prize Retailer Network.
Each finalist will receive 60,000 Australian dollars to create a six-look Merino wool capsule either as part of their fall 2025 collection, or in a stand-alone format.
Woolmark said the designs should highlight Merino wool’s versatility, innovative nature, and have eco-credentials. At least one look must be presented exclusively as part of the International Woolmark Prize.
Lopez of Luar said he will use wool in unexpected ways, fusing knitwear, draping and embroidery with tailoring in a tech-driven way, with function and durability a major consideration.
Rogge, former head of design for womenswear at Dries Van Noten, said she would push wool further by applying new ideas to traditional techniques and fabrics, such as double-face.
She said her team is excited about finding ways to use wool as if it were a synthetic fabric, “like creating padding or technical elements from it. We also want to focus on comfort, using soft Merino wool as a lining to make the pieces feel amazing to wear.”
She added that the capsule will also incorporate accessories that highlight wool’s “versatility and ability to stay relevant, while offering something new.”
Nouchi, winner of last year’s ANDAM Fashion Award, said he’d like to show that wool can be sexy. Lin of Act No.1 wants his capsule to be “very tactile,” while Standing Ground’s Stewart said wool is a special fiber that lends itself well to how he likes to dress the body.
The duo behind Ester Manas said their capsule aims to challenge preconceptions of wool while staying true to the brand’s core philosophy of body positivity and adaptable design.
“We want to explore wool as a versatile material that transcends seasons, climates and body shapes. Our aim is to combine wool’s natural technical properties — its breathability, elasticity and durability — with modern knitting and weaving techniques to create garments that are as inclusive as they are sustainable,” added Manas and Delepierre.
During the development of the collections the eight finalists will have access to industry mentors including stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, fashion editor Sara Sozzani Maino, Tilting the Lens founder Sinéad Burke and Roopal Patel, fashion director at Saks.
Two industry awards will also be presented at the final event next year.
The Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation will be given to a brand or individual within the fashion industry that has pushed the boundaries of Merino wool innovation.
The Supply Chain Award will recognize a member of the supply chain who has demonstrated leadership and innovation in sustainable practices.
John Roberts, managing director at Woolmark, which helps some 60,000 Australian wool growers promote their products, said the prize, which relaunched in 2012, represents Woolmark’s continued commitment to resource sharing, support of local artisans, and to lead the industry on a journey to nature positive.
“These designers are key players in this transformation, and we’re excited to see how their collections unfold,” he added.
Lagos Space Programme, a Nigeria-based label that seeks to challenge the image of African fashion with designs rooted in Yoruba tradition and queer identity, was named the winner of the 2023 International Woolmark Prize in May 2023. The Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation went to Danish knitwear brand A. Roege Hove.
Previous winners of the International Woolmark Prize include Saul Nash, Matty Bovan, Richard Malone, Bode, Rahul Mishra, Edward Crutchley and Matthew Miller, as well as Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent and Valentino Garavani.
