EgonLab designers Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix took a darker, and more elegant, turn for fall with a collection that was packed with tailoring, soft edges and a few dramatic flourishes.
They called the collection “S4LEM,” in a nod to the 17th-century Massachusetts witch trials, and wanted to look more broadly at outsiders and the persecuted. Despite the complex societal issues, and the designers’ worthy ambitions, this collection skewed classic and luxe.
The opening look, a long, black coat with a frothy white collar and cuffs, had a dash of Count Dracula, but the rest of the collection wasn’t frightening in the least.
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There were some lovely, neutral tone-on-tone looks — trousers, skinny knit tops and long patterned scarves — and a strong lineup of coats, too. A sweeping trench had wide sleeves and a thick belt, while long, sculptural topcoats came in deep purple, mauve or slicked with cream-colored sequins.
The duo’s signature, outsized proportions also made an appearance in the form of a sporty jacket with double stripes on the sleeves and a tall statement collar.
Even the little voodoo doll charms that EgonLab did as part of the Zadig&Voltaire collaboration were sweet rather than scary, and added a dash of fun to all of those classic looks.
