Forget the maximalist ending of the last Etro show in February. After the sudden exit of creative director Marco De Vincenzo that closely followed that runway outing, the in-house design team tasked with spearheading the brand seems to have received a mandate to go back to the roots of the Italian house.
The resort 2027 collection traded fashion highs with the soothing familiarity of the brand’s signatures, which should reassure longtime Etro customers during this moment of transition. Paisley galore, the signature Arnica pattern and a plethora of ruffled silhouettes with a boho vibe defined the lineup, which was imbued with a sense of lightness and a delicate color palette in lieu of textural opulence and saturated tones.
The globetrotting DNA of the label was translated into airy and comfortable shapes spanning from flared pants and frilly summer dresses in different lengths to sartorial looks that went from relaxed to structured via jacquard suits and compact knitted tailoring.
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Printed chemise dresses, scarf-like tops and slipdresses layered with little matching capes added to broderie anglaise frocks and sequined laced options in building a wardrobe fit for island-hopping in remote destinations just as much as for glamorous weekend escapes around the corner. Ditto for a motif mixing landmarks of renowned Italian hotspots — such as Capri, Portofino and Taormina — that popped up on a flowy caftan doubling as a fashion postcard.
Yet outerwear offered the best pieces, as seen in reversible jacquard capes and suede jackets and vests with studded fringed details that had a ‘70s flavor that clicked with Etro’s roots without the need for any pattern.
Mingled among the women’s offering, men’s looks also suggested a return to the brand’s nomadic spirit with references to trips between Mediterranean shores and India. Preppy-nodding knits and striped shirts pointed to posh Riviera getaways while flashier printed silk pants and jackets veered toward more exotic destinations. They offered a glimpse of the journey that Etro menswear is about to embark on, ahead of the presentation the brand will stage in a fortnight during Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
