PARIS — Dior is throwing its hat back in the men’s watch ring with the relaunch of the Chiffre Rouge line.
Unveiled Thursday to the press, the range will span eight models, with the first five arriving in stores on Feb. 12.
A further release is planned in July and the final two will launch in October.
For Lan Cittadini Cesi, director of Dior’s jewelry and watchmaking business unit, its anniversary was the ideal opportunity to reintroduce Chiffre Rouge.
Originally launched in 2004 with a pair of steel automatic chronographs in 36 and 38mm, it was developed between the brand’s then-budding watchmaking atelier and its men’s division.
After the line went on hiatus in 2015, the house doubled down on its women’s watch offer, resulting in the Gem Dior, La D My Dior as well as the Grand Bal Étoile de Monsieur Dior automaton, which scored the Lady’s Complication Prize at the 2023 Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève.
Initially an automatic diving watch, models released over the course of the following decade played on the titular red and a bold asymmetric design.
The new Chiffre Rouge iteration reprises these codes, as well as other elements of the Dior vernacular, with the “cannage” graphic pattern used on dials, movements and bracelets; and a highlighted 8 on the date indicator, in reference to Christian Dior’s lucky number.
“Chiffre Rouge is above all a unique proposition in terms of creativity, a value that lies at the heart of the Dior heritage: its uniqueness and originality come mainly from its cut on the right-hand side, creating a strong line that gives it its distinctive and recognizable asymmetry,” said Cittadini Lan.
She expects the line to “meet the expectations of Dior men who are looking for creativity, heritage and Dior’s historical references, as well as the modernity brought by different materials and functions.”
While billed as a men’s watch line, Dior Chiffre Rouge is expected to also appeal to a female consumer looking for a masculine casual chic watch, the executive continued.
Chronographs will have an El Primero movement produced for Dior by Zenith, also in the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton stable, while three-hand models will use a custom version of the SW300 movement by noted specialist Sellita.
For its tourbillons, the Avenue Montaigne house called on another LVMH stablemate, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
It took the watchmaker more than a year to develop the CD.003 automatic movement with its flying tourbillon, as the Chiffre Rouge design called for the crown to be placed at 4 o’clock, rather than the usual 3 o’clock. The tourbillon cage also presented technical challenges.
All will be automatic and three of the watches released in February are limited editions, recognizable by their solid rose gold bumper on the right.
The 38mm black three-hand will have a run of 300. Only 20 pieces of each 41mm tourbillon will be made, one in black and rose gold, the other with a bezel set with a rainbow of sapphires.
Bracelets continue the connection to house codes, with the textural effect of the rubber obtained by scanning the surface of purses.
They can be changed thanks to an easy-to-use system that removes the need to bring the watch in store for the operation, and a micro-adjustment system on the buckle gives extra leeway for fit.
Prices will span from 7,800 euros for the 38mm black ultramatte three-hand watch and 13,500 euros for the 41mm chronograph, and up to six figures for the limited editions. The whole Dior Chiffre Rouge line will enjoy a five-year warranty.
