PARIS — It’s time for relaunched Swiss watchmaker Daniel Roth’s first commercial timepiece.
A follow-up to the inaugural Tourbillon Souscription, the 38.6-millimeter double-ellipse model — soberly titled Tourbillon Rose Gold — is another nod to the wrist-worn tourbillon design known as reference 2187/C187.
Originally a 25-piece commission from Asprey of London, the style was credited for funding the launch of Roth’s brand in 1988 and became a sought-after signature design.
“We wanted to remain faithful to the spirit of [founder] Daniel Roth, to the aesthetic codes and know-how he has defined since the creation of his eponymous brand,” said Matthieu Hegi, the artistic director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned watchmaking hub.
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In his opinion, the house aesthetic is classic, with cases aiming to “dress up” the movement’s watchmaking technicality.
Used here were Roth’s signatures of a double ellipse “ellipsocurvex” case shape as well as the dial’s pinstripe guilloche, Roman numerals, and circular satin finish.
The dial was produced in collaboration with the engine-turning atelier of Kari Voutilainen, a Switzerland-based Finnish clockmaker whose designs have won 10 prizes at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève.
The overall design of the latest Daniel Roth also plays off the contrast between two rose gold and rhodium-plated elements, including sterling silver chapters and scales on the subdials. Indexes and hands are in black lacquer and add further visual appeal.
The choice of rose gold, in particular the warmer-tone 5N alloy, was driven by the balance between its modern appeal and wide use in classic watchmaking.
“It is a perfect evolution from the vintage feel of the yellow gold used for the Tourbillon Souscription,” continued Hegi.
While updates on the lugs and crown are perceptible to aficionados, the biggest change brought by this watch is the sapphire caseback that gives a view on the DR001 caliber.
Two years in the making, the caliber was developed by LFT’s master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.
“We approached [its] development with a lot of respect in regard to Daniel’s achievements and watchmaking philosophy. It had to be a movement that Daniel would love at first sight and feel connected to straightaway,” said Navas, revealing that the team shared updates with Roth throughout conception.
The veteran watchmaker was “very emotional” when they shared the final design with him, Navas added.
Keen as they were to respect heritage, both saw this redesign as an opportunity to take things further, particularly on thinness, with 206 components packed in 4.6 millimeters.
“While we stayed true to Daniel’s watchmaking philosophy, we of course incorporated a few elements that are from our own experiences as watchmakers,” continued Barbasini. “The first and main difference is the fact that this is a shape movement, of the exact shape of the double ellipse case, a feat we could achieve only as we were starting the design from scratch.”
Among the technical improvements to the original design are a flat 3-arm hand on the tourbillon cage, instead of the original curved ones.
Touch and sound were also carefully considered, with the duo choosing a linear winding click “to really emphasize that almost sensual feel that a collector has when winding up their watch, feeling and hearing that specific click,” Barbasini said.
Other details include very fine “côte de Genève” detailing on the bridges and mirror polish to highlight components within the caliber.
To further cement the idea of this model as a continuation rather than a wholly new entry, the numbering will start at 21, after the 20-strong Souscription run.
Retailing for 155,000 Swiss francs, or $183,600 at current exchange rates, the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold will be sold through selected retail partners of the brand.
But don’t hold your breath if you’re hoping to just walk in-store to get one. While the brand’s watches aren’t limited editions per se, it is not expecting to produce more than 50 pieces a year.
The Tourbillon Rose Gold’s launch coincides with the first participation in the Geneva Watch Days for Daniel Roth since its 2023 relaunch under the aegis of La Fabrique du Temps.
The four-day event taking place in the Swiss metropolis until Sunday is aimed at media and retailers as much as consumers and collectors, with a city-wide program of product reveals, panel discussions — and parties.
Launched in 2020 by Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F, which was recently bought by Chanel, in response to the cancellation at that time of the Baselworld and Watches and Wonders fairs, it has since attracted more than 50 brands.
These include Girard-Perregaux, Frédérique Constant, Jacob & Co., Swatch Group-owned Blancpain and Bréguet as well as newcomers such as Trilobe.
