Young designers in London are questioning what it means to live in a melting pot of culture and what that means for their identity. Do they embrace their differences? Or should they try and fit in?
Nuba’s co-creative directors Cameron Williams and Jebi Labembika had a number of ideas for the latter with hood dresses and tops that conceal the wearer’s identity. They delved into the pressures of living in a city as a foreigner or as migrants.
“Once they’re in the city, they need to force themselves to fit into everything that goes on there, trying so hard to become part of the nightlife, but also wanting to go to church – it’s all these different aspects,” Williams said.
Olly Shinder presented his third collection with Fashion East, and it was a tug of war between conforming and rebelling against uniforms.
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Uniforms are a touchy subject for the designer. “Uniforms are important to me because of childhood and family experiences and trauma,” he said.
He cross referenced sports kits and Scout uniforms in his collection with chocolate twinsets; Star Trek yellow separates and neckties slotted into keeper loops.
“I was trying to redesign things I found exciting and sexy in a way that I felt about them,” said the designer, who is backed by brand development hub Dover Street Market Paris.
Loutre’s Pia Schiele also toyed with uniforms, and the transition into adulthood.
Blazers were lightly scrunched and then pinned to the chest to give them a pleated effect; blown-up bombers created a balloon shape and calf socks in white, red and blue were reminiscent of pre-school uniforms.
“So much is coming together, we live in a city with a lot of tradition, but we’re also young living in a digital age,” said Schiele.
