The Sicilian sun burns bright in the heart of Fausto Puglisi, who grew up in the seaport of Messina before moving to New York to fulfill his design dreams. That same sun soaked through every part of his elegant collection which, at first, didn’t seem very Cavalli at all.
Where were all the prints? The high-energy show opened with a thumping drumbeat and a lineup of monochromatic miniskirts, knits, cropped jackets and dresses as pale as sun-bleached stones on the beach.
Trench coats and skirts with fishnet overlays made from brown string added a rough-hued charm, as did minidresses that tinkled with little shells and rope belts or ties on everything from wide-legged trousers to bikini tops and soft, wrinkled dresses with cutouts at the side.
Puglisi said inspiration came not only from the fishermen of Messina but also from the city’s neat and spare Moorish architecture, which contrasts with all of the baroque flourish and lavish architecture on the rest of the island.
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When the prints did arrive, they were just as pure and uncomplicated. Puglisi layered photo images of the setting and rising sun onto skinny, draped gowns, A-line minidresses, languid trousers and cool zip-front tops with a surfer vibe.
After the sun came the sea, with photo prints of deep blue and turquoise waters washing over caftans and billowy anoraks light as parachutes. Sequin evening gowns in similar colors glittered like fish.
There were so many beautiful things here, the result of Puglisi’s consistent efforts to refine his vision and dress a wider range of women around the world.
After the Sicilian sun set, Puglisi took another look back with a tribute to the house’s founder Roberto Cavalli, a lifelong lover of prints, wild animals and feline silhouettes, who died in April.
At the end of the show, a retro cast of runway models including Eva Herzigova, Natasha Poly and Joan Smalls paraded pieces from the Cavalli archive, and took a final bow with Cavalli’s ex-wife, longtime muse and business partner Eva.
The mood was joyous, sensual, summery – and captured by a recording that blasted over the speakers towards the end of the show. It was a woman calling to Roberto Cavalli to hurry up, or he’ll miss the party. “Miss the party?” says Cavalli. “I am the party.”
