LONDON — London’s emerging designers focused on materials and toyed with textural detailing, volumes and draping to create collections that were a joy to see — and touch.
Talia Byre
Breton, candy, awning, pin — is there anything better than a stripe?
They are a central motif in Talia Byre’s collections and this season was no exception.
The designer looked to Amedeo Modigliani’s portraits of the writer Beatrice Hastings, his longtime partner. The color story also took cues from Modigliani’s palette of browns and tans, with pops of blue and red interspersed.
Byre said this season was about refining the brand’s identity. In addition to Modigliani she drew on the songs of ’60s girl groups such as The Shangri-Las and The Ronettes.
“This season we wanted to hone the silhouette. We added collars, detailing, zip trims, but stayed true to our quite tight silhouette with flared flamenco hem,” the designer explained.
Shirts, skirts and dresses of the mini- and maxi variety, knitwear and outerwear took shape in striped cotton poplin, uber-soft cashmere and leather.
Lucila Safdie
Delicate lace pressed sweetly against skin; bouncing tiered, frilled short-shorts; a pale pink rose print: Lucila Safdie’s brand is an expression of femininity, empowered by traditional girly elements.
Safdie turned to Sylvia Path’s “The Bell Jar” and the writer’s unabridged journals for this collection that gave ’50s shapes a more contemporary edge and mixed them with “the schoolgirl, coming-of-age aesthetic of my brand,” the designer said.
The collection featured polka dot midi-dresses that Amy Winehouse might have worn as well as cropped polos and jackets. There were also low-waisted trousers in dark denim cotton and quilted gray jerseys that were cuffed at the hems, creating a pajama-y feel. Slouchy shirts and leggings rounded out the collection.
The brand resonates with young women and the designer counts a bevy of “It” girls including model Alex Consani, rapper Sexyy Red, singer Beabadoobee, actress Chloe Cherry, and K-pop girl group NewJeans as customers.
Momonary x 3M
Momonary swerved the typical colors of fall, working with a dreamy wash of soft pastels and adding fragile floral and sparkling crystal appliqués to clothing.
The brand’s creative director Zeng Yue was inspired by cartography, and said in an interview over email that the aim was to layer lightweight material to create a heavily textured look. “Thin, map-printed chiffon layers cascade, revealing the ever-changing terrain. Gold-stitched embroidery flowers act as coordinates, marking our journey,” the designer said.
Created in partnership with 3M and using the organization’s animal-free loose fill insulation, coats came with long, sleek silhouettes. They were quilted and dotted with fluttering silk flowers, and shown alongside wide-leg trousers, bubble skirts and shirts.
Patrick McDowell
Liverpudlian designer Patrick McDowell presented a collection inspired by the orchestra that included voluminous gowns exploding outward at the hip, reminiscent of a violin’s curves. Other clothes featured musical instrument prints, while a sheet music pattern covered a top and a hijab.
