Gabriela Hearst, who staged her spring 2021 collection in the French capital, is returning to Paris Fashion Week for the spring 2025 edition.
According to the provisional calendar released Monday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who showed in New York last February as part of a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, and Y/Project, which sat out the fall 2024 runway season to focus on internal investments, are also returning with Paris runway shows.
New names on the official schedule, which runs from Sept. 23 to Oct. 1, include Niccolò Pasqualetti, one of eight finalists for the LVMH Prize this year, and Alainpaul by designer Alain Paul, who showed off-calendar last October when he launched his brand following a 10-year career working for labels including Vetements and Louis Vuitton.
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Hearst’s show is programmed for 1:30 p.m. on Sept. 30, a day which also includes spring 2025 collections by Stella McCartney, Zimmermann, Sacai, Balenciaga, Pierre Cardin and others.
Hearst expressed her gratitude to the Fédération for letting her be part of the Paris Fashion Week calendar. “Its international reach and remarkable platform for creative expression will enable us to pursue our development based on a long-term view, combining luxury and sustainability,” she told WWD.
Born in Uruguay and based in New York, Hearst last year wound up an eventful three-year stint as creative director of Chloé in Paris, while also developing her signature brand, which she recently paraded during New York Fashion Week.
Surely among the most anticipated shows in Paris will be Valentino on Sept. 29, marking Alessandro Michele’s runway debut at the Roman house, and Dries Van Noten on Sept. 25, the first women’s show without the founder, who retired from the runway with a swan song menswear show last month. His studio team is to produce the women’s spring 2025 collection.
Among familiar names missing from the calendar are Givenchy, which also sat out the men’s runway season awaiting its next creative director; Marine Serre, who showed her women’s and men’s collections as a guest designer at Pitti Uomo last month, and independent design duo Victoria Feldman and Tomas Berzins, who are shuttering business operations of their Victoria/Tomas label to focus on collaborations and other design projects.
Off-White and Avellano also do not appear on the provisional list.
Of the 38 presentations on the schedule, new ones include Polish designer Magda Butrym, Vaillant by Paris-born Alice Vaillant, Belgian designer Julie Kegels, Spanish brand Abra, and Vautrait by Israeli designer Yonathan Carmel, a semifinalist for the LVMH Prize 2024. Meanwhile, returning presentations include Aigle, Heliot Emil and Christopher Esber, grand prize winner of the 2024 ANDAM Fashion Award.
There are a total of 70 shows on the provisional agenda, with Weinsanto, Vaquera and CFCL opening proceedings on Sept. 23 and Chanel, Peter Do, Miu Miu, Lacoste and Louis Vuitton among those scheduled on Oct. 1.
While Vuitton officially closes Paris Fashion Week as usual, there will be a Coperni event later that night. As reported, the fashion brand cofounded by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant has booked Disneyland Paris for a “full experience” in the park’s Fantasyland area.
The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode also disclosed participants in The Sphere showroom for emerging brands. Weinsanto by Victor Weinsanto and Abra are new, while returning designers include Charles de Vilmorin, Florentina Leitner, Maitrepierre, Lucille Thièvre and Paolina Russo.
