It’s been an intense few months for GCDS and its founder Giuliano Calza, who’s been busy juggling between different projects, from dressing pop stars Troye Sivan, Doja Cat and Karol G for concerts to relocating its headquarters in Milan. He also recently hosted a horror-themed dinner at Universal Studios in Hollywood; released a Polly Pocket collaboration, and promptly came up with ironic merchandise dedicated to Italian rapper Tony Effe as he took part in the popular Sanremo music contest.
Throw in knee surgery and the build-up to the 10th anniversary of the brand — a celebration is planned for the second part of the year — and you can understand Calza’s decision to forgo a runway show this season.
Instead, he released a focused fall 2025 collection via look book images imbued with his pop sensibility. The range reflects Calza’s varied references and bold approach to contrasts, clashing the gothic with the preppy, the sexy with the demure and the streetwear with the sartorial.
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Calza’s girl can nonchalantly wear a leopard slipdress over her flared jeans to run her morning errands or tie a crewneck sweater around the shoulders and steal her grandma’s pearls while slipping into killer thigh-high leather boots for a family gathering. Likewise, his boy can be seen in a furry animal-print tracksuit or suiting up in a double-breasted jacket with doily embellishments on lapels and cuffs.
Walking the line between past and present, the designer also reintroduced a python pattern from the brand’s archives and played with the sheer textures of flimsy crop tops and tights to emphasize his new incursion in the lingerie world.
As for the dark side to which Calza is always attracted, this came via a capsule celebrating the “Nosferatu” movie starring Lily Rose Depp. It marks another step in GCDS’ conversation with Universal Pictures, and reflects the designer’s fascination with vampires and cinema.
