If Chanel is closely associated with Place Vendôme, Celine’s signature landmark must be the Arc de Triomphe.
Legend has it house founder Céline Vipiana adopted a chain motif among her fashion house’s signifiers after her car broke down next to the Arc de Triomphe in 1971, and she noticed the heavy links that encircle the plaza.
Now Hedi Slimane has taken things to a new zenith, titling his fall effort “Arc de Triomphe” and stamping the brand’s decorative Triomphe motif on groovy little pillbox caps, the temples of TV-screen-shaped sunglasses and — surprise! — Celine’s new lipstick range, the first shade slated to launch this fall and teased in his sumptuous collection film.
This was easily Slimane’s best filmed reveal yet, with no droning rock soundtrack, only sweeping classical music backing gorgeous, velvety, mostly black-and-white imagery melding heroic Antoine Bourdelle sculptures, Twiggy-esque eye makeup and perfectly coiffed models in pert suits and dresses, all with a distinct ’60s gloss.
Released about a week after the end of fashion month, it put Slimane’s seal of approval on a decade that percolated throughout the European fashion season, and reached full-boil here. His version is as youthful and compelling as it is polished.
Press notes time-stamp the collection’s conception to July 2023, and the filming to December 2023, perhaps to underline that Slimane settled on LBDs, strands of pearls and Space Age chic long before they appeared on runways in Milan and Paris.
Slimane describes the ’60s as the “golden age of Celine,” which was founded in 1945 and based initially on shoes. The exacting designer homed in on coordinated two-piece looks, A-line shapes and short hemlines. Surfaces became more embellished as his film progressed, climaxing in minidresses paved in heavy crystal embroideries or feather-shaped gold sequins, and bulbous shearling coats, some hooded.
Slimane reprised his Triomphe bag, which he designed on his first day at Celine in 2018, in gleaming white or black patent leather to match his gleaming mary janes and tall boots.
Models strolled through several famous Parisian venues that boast lavish Art Deco decors, including the Salle Pleyel concert hall, La Maison de la Chimie and the Musée Bourdelle. Spliced in were scenes of models preening in front of a mirror, the vanity appointed with products from the forthcoming Celine Beauté range.
First up is a range of satin-finish lipsticks in 15 colors, hitting counters in January 2025. According to Celine, new beauty collections designed by Slimane are to be released each season, ultimately comprising lip balms, mascaras, nail polish, eyeliners and pencils, loose powders and blush cases.
With this film, Slimane said he wished to pay tribute to the late Richard Avedon, whom he described as a “dear friend and mentor.” He did the legendary photographer proud.
