Huishan Zhang took a spicy turn this season, drawing on the rivalry between actresses Anna Magnani and Ingrid Bergman, and their competition for the affections of director Roberto Rossellini.
“I built this wardrobe around the clash, the contrast between the two women — one a loud, sensual Italian, and the other a Hollywood darling,” Zhang said.
He deflated the volumes and downplayed the formality of seasons past, focusing instead on more spare silhouettes that nodded to the burning summer heat of Sicily and to old school Hollywood glamour, all in a palette that took in feisty red, oxblood and silvery gray.
Bits of black tulle fluttered from curvy satin slipdresses in Champagne shades, while a tailored black suit came with a swingy skirt and a sizzling cropped jacket that revealed a naked torso.
Sheer, bejeweled dresses added a further dash of southern Italian glamour, especially when Zhang paired them with faux fur jackets or hip-skimming leather coats.
Old Hollywood shone through in the form of more demure styles, including a long and slim belted overcoat, and a silvery gray dress with an oversize bow that wrapped around the shoulders like a cloud.
Is Zhang’s socialite customer ready for so much drama? This sexy collection was a departure from the gowns, sweet suits, and demure silhouettes of days past, and it will be interesting to see whether his ladies side with Anna, or Ingrid.
