For designer Huishan Zhang, who splits his time between London and China, pre-fall 2026 represents an opportunity to bridge tranquil imagination and a prevailing sense of elsewhere, the joy of traveling and discovery of new destinations.
Marrakech, which Zhang had fond memories of pre-pandemic, informed the pre-collection’s use of fabric, color and retro silhouette, with design details borrowed from the colorful lives of Talitha Getty and Yves Saint Laurent, two figures closely associated with the Moroccan city.
The use of the turban as a styling tool served as a direct homage to Moroccan culture. The Made in Italy bespoke brown jacquard with kaleidoscopic patterns, seen on a doll dress and a long coat, recalled the mosaics of Marrakech, while the embroidery, particularly the botanical motifs circling the waistline and neck, was a direct reference to the vibrant visuals on the walls of the city’s Yves Saint Laurent Museum.
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Zhang’s personal highlights also included the fitted trench coats with travel-appropriate floral embroidery, a nod to his tie to the British way of life; evening numbers in crinkle fabrics with an embedded metallic membrane, and the safari-jacket-inspired silk chambray looks, deceptively denim in appearance but silken to the touch.
The designer is proud of the East-meet-West tailoring offering that he’s gradually perfected over the past six years. For pre-fall, they come in the form of versatile fitted jackets with qipao-inspired stand-up collars and pockets borrowed from a Mao suit.
