There was a tense energy on Wednesday morning at Jil Sander. Speculation about the exit of creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier has been mounting for months, contributing to making the show’s ticket one of the golden ones of the season.
Guests entering the venue could find a dark set-up simply made of black flooring and matching velvet curtains — an omen of what was going to unfold on the catwalk and throughout the day, when the Meiers’ departure from the brand was made official with a concise press statement.
Despite the buzz, the whole situation kind of spoiled the show itself, with much unsaid lingering in the air but with the teary-eyed designers backstage sharing hugs and receiving flowers from parent company OTB’s founder and president Renzo Rosso giving away the news more efficiently than any statement.
In their brief comment to WWD after the show, the Meiers said the message they wanted to send out with the collection was one of “strength, power and toughness in fronting the world — but finding beauty in that, as well.”
You May Also Like
This translated into a strong lineup covering a spectrum of colors and styles, going from black to white and from tough to ornamental, with matte and shiny finishes, austere lines and glitzy embellishments, studs and bows coexisting in the range.
The opening charmed with long sequined fringes covering strapless dresses, tops and kilts swaying as models stomped in their studded boots and loafers. The rebellious attitude also ran through tailoring via leather and vinyl inserts, steel eyelets, raw-cut trims and piercing-inspired jewelry dangling from the double belts cinching most of the looks.
Plush furry textures, fuzzy knits and leather ensambles in popping colors ferried the collection toward lighter hues and feminine flourishes, with delicate florals allover printed with a gradient effect on essential long frocks and coats, feathers springing from sheer skirts and bows applied on satin dresses, including the closing white gown.
Then the Meiers emerged from the curtains and took their final bow in total black attire, hand in hand — their body language speaking louder than words.
