“It’s always an evolution, not a disposable concept,” said Luke Meier backstage, referring to his and his wife Lucie’s seasonal approach to collections, and ultimately to the brand.
While some rely on trends for instant relevance, the Meiers know well they sit at the creative helm of a label that can afford the luxury to be timeless and still count on the loyal support of its niche. That’s the power of a strong brand identity. Yet the Meiers have found ways to inject their personal touch and a dash of gentleness into the rigorous lines the label is best known for.
Their spring 2024 collection exemplified this duality, primarily through shapes and volumes. They alternated the graphic lines of extra boxy tailoring with sailor collar shirts with the rounded, puffed sleeves of couture-like blouses or liquid satin dresses, and the generous proportions of outerwear with the elongated silhouettes of tunic dresses and long vests. The opening look alone combined a tight ribbed top with a voluminous flared skirt in a frock.
Elevating the mostly monochrome pieces, metal rings were integrated into vests to outline cut-outs; maxi sequins appeared on tops or swished in the form of fringes on the front of a tapered long dress, while crystal piercing-like earrings and necklaces punctuated each look, conveying a sort of punk-turned-luxe attitude.
The central part of the lineup was marked by visually punchy incursions, via eel skin looks, python prints on long coats or on the plastrons of shirts and even some animal prints in popping hues that were surprising to see in the mostly muted palette.
Although sharing many codes across genders, in this season’s coed exercise the women’s proposition felt stronger, especially in the styles that weren’t repeated in the men’s line, like the pristine, embroidered T-line blouse with cape-like construction and Bermuda pants or the dress Adwoa Aboah sported, which was crafted by spiraled bands of lace joined with broderie anglaise.
The couture-borderline-monastic allure of those pieces had a solemnity that demanded attention while still allowing room for delicacy and a charming sense of movement.