For her first show on the official calendar, Julie Kegels put on a splashy poolside show, bringing a beachy vibe to Paris despite the day’s rain.
As if scripted, the contrarian weather played perfectly into her love story. Kegels’ collection depicted a bicontinental romance between a Los Angeles hippie and Paris bourgeoisie with all the collusion and dissonance of the cities’ respective styles.
Speaking the language of both surfer and socialite, she translated that into looks that break down each city’s codes. The typical tweed suit of Paris was cut thigh-high and trailing with fringe, or cropped short shrug length. Pencil skirts had their origins in boys’ board shorts with fold-over waistbands, and bikini bandeaus topped crisp white button-down bathing suits.
After a trip to Santa Barbara and Malibu, Calif., following last season’s show, Kegels did a deep dive into archival photographs from the 1960s and ‘70s for the poolside inspirations.
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“It’s like arriving in a movie,” she said of her first trip to the West Coast. “It’s a clash between sporty and sensitive. It’s about the contrast between the two worlds.”
Held in the city’s tony 16th arrondissiment, the show posed the question of what would a proper Parisienne wear if bouncing between the two cities, and two identities? Kegel answered in styling with terry cloth beach towels draped across the shoulders or tied around the neck like a chunky scarf, paisley socks tucked into kitten heel flip flops or clutching a mini surfboard in place of a handbag.
Rain coats included Audrey Hepburn-style head scarves while canvas jackets had a sunkissed, washed-out quality. The ‘70s staple caftan was rendered in silk and backless here, and bikini bottoms were interspersed with sleek black suits.
The Belgian designer used the bright colors and bold prints of the era as the jumping off point for her hand-drawn prints and side-stepped sentimentality by double printing the florals for a blurred effect.
The playful, relaxed ambiance highlighted the easy pieces that bring a currency to an adaptable wardrobe.
