Kiko Kostadinov revisited some of his favorite pieces for fall 2024 with a more versatile and workwear-inspired bent.
He referenced silhouettes from early seasons, bringing in styles that can be worn in multiple ways like an apron made with geometric jacquard developed in-house that can be styled as a long waistcoat or a dress, and a work jacket-shirt hybrid based on a women’s cardigan from the 1950s. Also on offer were bright knits, sharp suits with darted shoulders, and jackets with zippers all over in blue, mustard and burgundy.
“This is about going back to what worked well for us to build the story, introducing ideas that people probably didn’t know existed. For me, this is [a move of] claiming territory as well. I don’t need to constantly look for new things,” Kostadinov said backstage.
By looking backward, the brand is setting itself for the next stage of growth. Kostadinov revealed that a new office recently opened in the Marais district of Paris and its first stand-alone store is to be unveiled in Tokyo in two months.
The fall collection also saw Kostadinov’s first rendezvous with denim, in collaboration with Levi’s. The designer reinterpreted patterns from the early 2000s into a jacket and trousers with embroidery around the knees. One couldn’t tell if they were Levi’s until seeing the logo at the back pocket.
“I wanted to make sure it’s a pattern that we will use for ourselves. We tried to not go crazy on the bleaching or put the swatchbook into the product,” added Kostadinov.
