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Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault expanded the Knwls universe for spring 2025 with a bigger evening offering and a collaboration with Tencel for a range of sultry, tactile dresses, and the brand’s first wedding gown.

Backstage, the couple said they wanted to pare back on the runway gimmicks and shift the focus to craft, finding ways to advance traditional couture techniques for the TikTok generation.

“We have been thinking about how can we become a house. So we looked back at the history of fashion and the codes of all the designers we look up to, such as Galliano, Mugler and Gaultier,” Arsenault said.

The Knwls girls are entering adulthood. There are party options still — leather corsets, treated denim and miniskirts looking hot as usual — but the standouts were those more grown-up pieces appropriate for scenarios like business negotiations, PTA meetings, or Royal Ascott.

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Stephen Jones made the hats for the show. The oval-shaped headpieces also added a layer of well-to-do-ness to a brand that’s known for earthy denim and heavy leather.

“It’s a very primitive idea of a hat. It could be anything, a leaf that you just squash onto your hat, and that’s your protection,” Jones explained.

Following the London showcase, the brand will head to China in October for a pop-up event during Shanghai Fashion Week.

For more London spring 2025 reviews, click here.