Who can tame the maximalist, printed world of La DoubleJ? Apparently, only a legendary model like Carolyn Murphy.
In the gilded halls of Milan’s 17th-century Palazzo Clerici, the brand presented its spring 2027 collection in tandem with a capsule collection founder J.J. Martin developed with Murphy. The duo met a few years ago at a lunch in Los Angeles and immediately connected, tuning into the same energy vibrations that are the pulsing force behind both Martin’s life and fashion brand.
“She embodies more light than anybody I know so we couldn’t think of a better spokesperson and designer for our ‘Sisterhood of Light’ collaboration,” Martin said about the model.
The capsule celebrates the 10th anniversary of the brand’s first dress, The Swing design, that was here reinterpreted through Murphy’s more purist lens. “It’s toned down, a little bit more quiet and ethereal,” Martin said. “It’s very pure, elegant and gracious — just like her.”
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Hitting the stores Nov. 5 — kickstarting a busy month for La DoubleJ, which will also launch a new candle line and a tome on homeware around that time — the range is made up of seven different variations of the style crafted in precious jacquards and fil coupés and trading prints for rich embroideries, sparkling beading and feathered hems. Four other frocks and a jacket add to the capsule, which represents “without question, the most couture and elevated level of craftsmanship we have ever brought to a La DoubleJ collection,” Martin said.
The main spring 2027 aimed to keep up with it while featuring Martin’s formula of prints — with feathers, butterflies and orchids favored as main motifs — splashed on billowing caftans and a plethora of lightweight dresses cut in different lengths. These mingled with more structured solid pieces and knits, in a mix of materials that included chiffon, crêpe de chine, organza, lace and brocades.
“We’re pointing to a higher end of the market. There have been too many copies by brands that don’t produce in Italy, whereas that is our point of strength,” Martin said. “We love Italy, we support Italy, so we were like ‘let’s really show the amazing excellence that only Italy can do.’ The quality has always been there. I’ve always thought about wearability, but we’re [pushing style-wise].”
Balancing this with the right pricing remains paramount for Martin. “We simply cut our margins. That’s also part of our mission of raising the vibration: Treating the customer with fairness. It’s a long-term investment. Right now I’m really working on how to build a conscious fashion company.”
