Josef Lazo and Andreas Schmidl explored the performative nature of identity, or what they described as the tension between intimacy and extimacy — a Lacanian term for what we reveal versus what we conceal — with their spring presentation, and provided a fun setting for their camp, playful proposal in the process.
The installation, in a courtyard in the Marais, nodded to the social media trend for “Get Ready With Me,” or “GRWM” videos. They set up semi-transparent changing cabins and asked the models to pick and choose what they fancied wearing and pairing from the collection, changing at will throughout the presentation to showcase the designs before posing for the cameras any way they chose.
The notion of voyeurism was intentional, but for anyone who didn’t want to undress in public, there was also the possibility of heading backstage to change.
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Lazoschmidl’s lighthearted combination of pieces that would work in even the most conservative office with ‘80s inspired rave wear may now be familiar, and several themes were continued from last season, including the striped poplin shirts and rainbow fabric pieces, for instance. New this time around were a translucent ripstop hoodie and Bermudas in PU-coated cotton with a fake snakeskin motif.
The arbitrary styling resulted in pairings of multihued metallic pajama pants with a striped poplin shirt, or slimline gorpcore cropped pants with a bright, stripy sweater that hugged the body.
Among the highlights, the designers transformed archival photos into a comic strip using AI and emblazoned it across designs like a denim coat and pants, garment-dyed in lemon yellow, as well as a transparent mesh top and, for the less outlandish, a simple T or cotton swimming shorts.
