Stoffa has quietly been building a made-to-measure men’s business for a decade.
The brand started out selling accessories online in 2014 before branching out into casualwear and more recently, suits, targeting a younger man seeking well-constructed garments in unique, high-quality fabrics. A small ready-to-wear capsule was introduced at the end of last year.
And now, the brand has opened a flagship at 125 Grand Street in New York’s SoHo neighborhood, marking Stoffa’s first street-level retail expression. For the past five years, the company has operated a private salon on the second floor of a space on Mercer Street where it worked with clients by appointment only. But now that the brand has branched out into ready-to-wear, it was time for a more-prominent presence.
Stoffa was created in 2014 by Agyesh Madan and Nick Ragosta who worked together at Isaia where Ragosta ran made-to-measure and Madan was involved in production and fabric development.
They started out making scarves before moving into casual apparel pieces. Suits were only introduced a year ago.
“Our concept is to bring made-to-measure to the more-casual world,” Ragosta said.
They traveled the world hosting truck shows — London, Stockholm, Paris, Los Angeles, San Francisco and New York — and soon developed a following of men seeking classic pieces that oozed luxury.
They became known for their leather and suede jackets, unconstructed jackets, shirts and polos, sweaters, trousers, sweatpants, sweatshirts and footwear. Interestingly, the same styles and silhouettes in the ready-to-wear collection are offered in made-to-measure for the customer who prefers to have more input into his wardrobe choices.
Prices are also the same for both lines, with trousers retailing for $425 to $650 and outerwear for $900 to $3,600. “It’s a good option for guys who want made-to-measure because it’s usually a 20-30 percent upcharge,” Ragosta said.
Everything is made in Italy in small, family-owned workshops that specialize in one product only. “Our outerwear people only make outerwear,” said Ragosta. “The same with our shirtmakers and trouser makers.” He added that with the made-to-measure products, they are cut by one person and sewn by another rather than a team.
But despite all the handwork, most made-to-measure pieces can be delivered to the customer within six weeks. And the ready-to-wear offering, which is being kept small intentionally, is updated every two to three months. It is carried by Mr Porter, By George in Austin, C.H.C.M. in New York and will be launching soon with Liberty of London.
But while wholesaling the ready-to-wear could been seen as a potential cash cow, Ragosta and Madan continue to focus most of their energy on the made-to-measure arm of the business.
“Our ready-to-wear is meant to be an extension of our made-to-measure,” Ragosta said. “And we want to keep that the focus.”
The goal, they said, is to get a customer to try something off-the-rack in hope that he may eventually move into made-to-measure.
The 2,000-square-foot Grand Street location is segmented into two parts: the front is for walk-in customers attracted to the ready-to-wear collection while a private made-to-measure department is in the rear, behind a curtain and bathed in natural light thanks to a large skylight in the center.
The space is minimalistic in design with a terrazzo concrete floor and raw walls in brick and plaster. The mix of vintage and modern fixtures showcase the limited assortment hanging in the space, and there is custom furniture from designer Mario Milana and Studio POA.
New York is Stoffa’s biggest market followed by London. Hong Kong and Singapore are also strong cities for the brand.
Since the ready-to-wear was introduced, sweaters and shirts have been the most popular items, the duo said. “They lend themselves to easier fits,” Ragosta said. Shoes are also doing well.
Looking ahead, the duo said they can see themselves one day opening other stores and expanding their wholesale business, but they’re in no hurry. “We would like to see expansion of this model,” Ragosta said, “but it’s all about finding the right, meaningful partners.”
