LONDON — British fashion designer Martine Rose on Wednesday released a look book for her fall 2024 collection. It included a dozen looks that were not included in the brand’s off-schedule show in Paris.
The designer, who rarely plays by the rules, decided to put on a last-minute fashion show during Paris Men’s Fashion Week back in Janurary, despite the invitation stating that it would be a film screening event, showing the recording of a runway presentation that was staged in London earlier in front of an audience made up of the friends and families of the community who walked it.
She presented 21 looks at the event held at Cuba Café in the 18th arrondissement, while the majority of the press had headed into dinners after the star-studded Ami show, which wrapped around 9:30 p.m. the same night.
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Learning from that oversight, for her next spring 2025 showcase in Milan, Rose told WWD during a preview that she wanted to go “the opposite and super accessible. We wanted to invite as many people as possible from the industry.”
In the expanded fall 2024 lineup, Rose further explores the concept of clothes as tools for empowerment. She studied individual ways of wearing clothes, mixing her notes on gestures, movement and mannerisms with her signature take on men’s tailoring, sportswear and somewhere in between. In the look book, via a diverse range of cast and methodical posing, one can argue the results of her observation are on better display here than on the runway in Paris.
Highlights in the collection feature looks where jackets, gilets, dresses and tops are deconstructed and reconstructed to form genre-bending pieces. There are also colored moirés and napa blazers, T-shirts with psychedelic space prints structured with built-in knots imitating the effect of one tying a jumper around the shoulder, denim items in yellow-tinted black wash and camouflage pattern, as well as tailored jackets with lining pulled out of the sleeve to create a makeshift cuff.
The footwear in the look books features Rose’s own designs, as well as slingback heels, padded mules and padded Oxford shoes from her second collaboration with Clarks.
