Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas that are reshaping the materials sector. It covers the latest developments in how fashion is designed, engineered, and scaled—from emerging biomaterials and next-generation leathers to engineered fibers and sustainable alternatives.
Polyester’s microplastics problem gets a closer look
A small University of Memphis study found that wearing polyester-containing T-shirts was associated with higher concentrations of airborne microplastics near participants’ breathing zones compared with cotton shirts.
The pilot study, funded by the National Cotton Council’s Cotton Foundation, involved 10 participants who wore cotton and polyester-containing T-shirts during daytime activities. Researchers also collected 12-hour baseline air measurements in participants’ bedrooms and used micro-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy to identify the size and chemical composition of airborne particles.
*Microplastics detected in cotton samples are the result of environmental exposure and textile production processes, rather than the natural cotton fiber itself. University of Memphis
Preliminary findings showed microplastic exposure measurements up to 42 percent higher when participants wore polyester T-shirts rather than cotton. Researchers also reported concentrations approaching 2,000 particles per cubic meter near participants wearing polyester, with polyethylene terephthalate (PET) identified in 99 percent of the detected airborne microplastics.
“Our findings suggest that synthetic garments are a contributing source of microplastic particles within an individual’s immediate breathing zone,” said Chunrong Jia, professor of environmental health at the University of Memphis. “While airborne microplastics exist in general indoor environments, fabric choice can affect how many microplastic particles a person is exposed to.”
Caravel Bio lands $1.2 million NSF grant for protein engineering
Caravel Bio has secured a $1.2 million National Science Foundation grant to expand its protein engineering platform, which uses laboratory automation and machine learning to develop proteins for industrial applications.
The Portland, Ore.-based biotechnology company received $1,246,984 through the NSF’s Small Business Innovation Research Phase II program. The funding will support work on proteins incorporating amino acids beyond the 20 commonly found in nature, opening possibilities for new chemical properties and industrial uses.
Caravel’s platform combines cell-free protein synthesis, microfluidic droplets and bacterial spore display to test millions of protein designs in parallel. Each experimental round generates data that can train machine learning models, helping researchers identify promising designs and determine how to manufacture them at larger volumes.
“When an experiment costs a fraction of a cent instead of tens of dollars, you stop asking which handful of ideas might work and instead start testing all of them,” said Emily Bowman, chief scientific officer of Caravel. “The systems we have built unlock massive data sets with very low costs.”
Caravel has also been working on enzymes for carbon capture through Shell’s GameChanger program. In that project, the company reported making the enzymes 12 times more stable under conditions relevant to industrial use.
Under the new grant, Caravel plans to expand its platform to additional enzyme classes for existing customers and work toward pilot deployments in applications including DNA synthesis, carbon capture and rare earth separations.
The company also appointed Michał Jastrzębski chief technology officer. Previously at Ginkgo Bioworks, he will lead Caravel’s artificial intelligence initiatives and help develop its protein-design models.
Yeti turns to Nuyarn for Merino apparel
Yeti is moving further into performance apparel with two merino wool styles made using Nuyarn Technologies’ proprietary spinning technology.
Nuyarn’s technology differs from conventional wool spinning by avoiding tight fiber twisting. The company claims its approach delivers nine times greater durability, 35 percent more thermal retention and three times faster drying while using 30 percent less material.
“We are proud to integrate our advanced technology into this debut collection and have further styles in development,” said Andy Wynne, CEO of Nuyarn. “We fundamentally believe our merino technology sets a new standard that belongs to anyone, from elite athletes to those seeking unmatched comfort and resilience in their daily wear.”
The two styles are available through Yeti’s U.S. website, with additional products incorporating Nuyarn technology in development.
Ciele expands Woolmark-certified running collection
Montreal-based Ciele Athletics has introduced its second Woolmark-certified collection, expanding its use of merino wool across cold-weather running apparel and accessories.
The collection centers on Sorino | WS, the brand’s merino wool and silk blend, used in its HLS base-layer system as well as face masks, neck tubes and balaclavas. The combination pairs wool’s temperature-regulating, moisture-managing and odor-resistant properties with silk’s softness and lightweight strength.
Woolmark certification independently verifies that products meet specified requirements for wool content, colorfastness, durability and laundering performance. The collection builds on Ciele’s existing relationship with the organization, which works with Australian woolgrowers and textile manufacturers to establish quality standards for wool products.
“We make things to be worn hard and kept for a long time,” said Jeremy Bresnen, co-founder of Ciele Athletics. “Woolmark has set the standard for quality wool for decades. Certifying key pieces in our collection, from our performance base layers to select accessories and every knit beanie we make, puts that standard on each one.”
The collection is available through Ciele’s website, its Montreal flagship store and select retailers internationally.
Minus33 expands New Hampshire manufacturing footprint
Minus33 Merino Wool is doubling its manufacturing footprint in Ashland, New Hampshire, as the fifth-generation family business marks 110 years in operation.
The company and its parent, L.W. Packard, celebrated the expansion Oct. 27 with a ribbon-cutting attended by New Hampshire Gov. Kelly Ayotte. The project includes a renovated 15,000-square-foot building scheduled to open in early 2027, with office and delivery space that will free up room for additional manufacturing in the company’s existing facility.
Minus33 currently makes socks in the U.S. and plans to add American-made merino wool hats and scarves. The expansion could also bring more jobs to Ashland, where the company expects to grow its workforce from roughly 24 employees to 40.
“The secret to 110 years in business is making products you’re proud of and hiring great people,” said Lawson Glidden, fifth-generation owner and president of Minus33 Merino Wool. “We’re proud to invest in Ashland and continue to do business here, hire here, and make quality merino wool products. This rich history and our dedicated employees are a clear reason we have posted double-digit sales growth for three consecutive years.”
L.W. Packard began manufacturing wool products in Ashland in 1916, eventually supplying broadcloth to Saks Fifth Avenue, L.L.Bean and the U.S. military. At its peak, the company employed roughly 300 people, but overseas competition contributed to a steep decline in the 1990s. Fourth-generation owner John Glidden later rebuilt the business as Minus33.
Today, the company offers approximately 180 merino wool products, including base layers, socks, gloves, headwear and blankets. Minus33 said it has recorded double-digit sales growth for three consecutive years, supported by direct-to-consumer sales, Amazon and wholesale retail accounts.
Olymp adds Livinguard odor-control finish
German menswear company Olymp is introducing Livinguard Fresh technology across selected shirts, polo shirts and T-shirts, adding an odor-control treatment to its officewear assortment.
Developed by Swiss materials science company Livinguard Technologies, the finish uses a positively charged fabric surface to attract and neutralize odor molecules. According to the companies, the treatment is bonded to the material during production and designed to retain its functionality through repeated washing.
Unlike treatments that mask odors with fragrance, Livinguard Fresh targets odor molecules directly on the textile surface. Olymp said washing reactivates the finish, allowing the garments to maintain their odor-control properties over time.
“These days, modern officewear has to do far more than just look good. It should adapt to the diverse situations of a long day whilst providing comfort and confidence,” said Heiko Ihben, Olymp managing director for brand, product and human resources. “This is exactly where Livinguard Fresh comes in. The technology creates an immediately noticeable added value and complements our commitment to developing high-performance products—shirts, polo shirts and T-shirts—that meet the demands of a modern and flexible everyday life.”
Heimtextil, Future Fabrics Expo partner on materials showcase
Heimtextil is partnering with Future Fabrics Expo on a new exhibition dedicated to functional materials for interiors, architecture and hospitality.
Upholstery made with living root systems, biobased composites and dyes derived from food waste are among the materials headed to Heimtextil’s new Functional Futures Lab. Developed with Future Fabrics Expo, the exhibition will open in Frankfurt Jan. 12-15, 2027, with displays ranging from research prototypes to commercially available products.
The exhibition will be organized into three categories: Circular Systems, Living Nature and Natural Performance. Organizers said accompanying information will identify each material’s development stage using Technology Readiness Levels, helping visitors distinguish early prototypes from products already available for commercial use.
“Performance is a key topic for the future of the textile industry. We see this worldwide at our events, from apparel to home and contract textiles,” said Olaf Schmidt, vice president of textiles and textile technologies at Messe Frankfurt. “Together with Future Fabrics Expo, we showcase at Heimtextil what innovative materials will be capable of in the future.”
The lab will be located in Hall 4.1 as part of Heimtextil’s Interior.Architecture.Hospitality area, alongside presentations, discussions and guided tours.
Anti-fur campaign targets Milan Fashion Week ties
Claudia D’Arpizio, a partner at Bain & Company, has stepped down from the board of Fondazione Altagamma following a series of protests organized by the Coalition to Abolish the Fur Trade, according to the animal rights organization.
CAFT said D’Arpizio informed the group of her resignation on Oct. 26 after a campaign targeting Bain over her position on Altagamma’s board alongside Carlo Capasa, president of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, which organizes Milan Fashion Week. Between Sept. 11 and Oct. 23, the group said it staged 57 protests across 14 cities in five countries, including 26 demonstrations outside the homes of Bain executives.
The organization has been pressuring Milan Fashion Week to prohibit fur on its runways. It also claims that Wella, DHL, Visa, Acqua Fiuggi and Lutech ended their sponsorships following its demonstrations.
“Five sponsors have walked away from Milan Fashion Week, and now a member of Altagamma’s own board has stepped down to avoid association with him,” said Suzie Stork, executive director of CAFT. “Anyone working with Camera Moda, or planning to, should take notice because the anti-fur movement will show up at the door of every company that works with Milan Fashion Week until it drops fur.”
CAFT said it has ended demonstrations against Bain but intends to continue its campaign against Altagamma until Milan Fashion Week adopts a fur-free policy.
Textiles Recycling Expo USA sets 2027 return
Textiles Recycling Expo USA will return to Charlotte, N.C., April 7-8, 2027, with an expanded exhibition and conference program covering textile recycling, sorting infrastructure, reuse and repair.
Organizer AMI has opened registration for the event’s second edition, which will again take place at the Charlotte Convention Center. The inaugural show attracted more than 1,800 attendees and 95 exhibitors, according to the organizer.
The 2027 program will address fiber-to-fiber recycling, mechanical and chemical recycling technologies, circular business models and changing legislation. It will also be held alongside the newly launched Textiles Manufacturing Expo, giving attendees access to both exhibitions.
